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HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL.

Valuable CAS 8001-78-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Hydrogenated Castor Oil, also known as castor wax, is a waxy lipid derivative prized for its robust stability and resistance to oxidation. It functions primarily as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient, contributing to enhanced formulation performance and skin moisturization.

Summary

Emollient Occlusive Humectant Skin conditioning Surfactant Viscosity controlling Emulsifying Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Antibacterial Binding agent Thickening agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

On a molecular level, Hydrogenated Castor Oil acts as an occlusive agent, forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface to minimize transepidermal water loss and bolster moisture retention. Its ricinoleic acid content, featuring a unique hydroxyl group, can also impart humectant properties, drawing moisture to the skin. Furthermore, it demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects to calm sensitive skin and provides antioxidant benefits against environmental stressors, potentially offering antibacterial properties beneficial for acne-prone skin. In product formulations, it contributes as a binding and thickening agent, improving texture and stability.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.0003–39%
Optimal

21%

Key findings

  1. 01 Investigations confirm its broad utility across a concentration range of 0.0003% to 39%, effectively serving as an emollient, surfactant, occlusive, and skin-conditioning agent in various cosmetic applications.
  2. 02 It is also a common excipient in topical pharmaceutical creams and ointments, typically at concentrations of 5% to 12.5%. The maximum reported cosmetic concentration has evolved, with a peak of 21% observed in eyebrow pencils by 2023.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a hard, high melting point waxy substance offering enhanced stability and resistance to oxidation. It is largely insoluble in water and most organic solvents but can be solubilized in hot solvents and oils at elevated temperatures, forming gels or a paste-like mass upon cooling. While a specific optimal pH range for the pure ingredient is not widely reported, formulations containing PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (a derivative) often target a pH of 5.5-7.0.

Synergies

  • Compatible with other waxes such as beeswax, carnauba, and candelilla wax.
  • Forms smooth, stable anionic emulsions when combined with emulsifiers and triethanolamine stearate.
  • Can be emulsified using cationic emulsifying agents.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
21%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Hydrogenated Castor Oil's safety for cosmetic use within current industry concentrations and practices. While generally considered non-toxic, individuals with particularly sensitive, injured, or inflamed skin are advised to perform a patch test due to a potential for minor irritation or allergic reactions in these specific cases. No direct SCCS opinion or FDA cosmetic ingredient status is available for Hydrogenated Castor Oil itself, although its PEGylated derivatives are recognized as food additives.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A versatile and robust ingredient, Hydrogenated Castor Oil offers significant value in skincare formulations by enhancing moisturization, supporting skin barrier integrity, and providing formulation stability across a wide range of product types.

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