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Moumoujus

HEMA.

Avoid CAS 868-77-9 / NAIL SCULPTING

HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a highly hydrophilic monomer primarily known for its role in UV-curable applications such as nail products, where it contributes to film formation, adhesion, and mechanical strength. In some cosmetic formulations, it functions as a texturizer and thickener, but it is widely recognized for its significant potential as a contact allergen.

Summary

Film-forming Viscosity controlling Texturizer Thickener Oil solubilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

HEMA functions by undergoing a polymerization reaction when exposed to UV light, forming robust, long polymer chains. This process grants products high durability, strong adhesion, and mechanical integrity. Its intrinsic hydrophilic properties enable it to absorb water and adhere effectively to various surfaces. Within cosmetic formulations, HEMA can act as a viscosity-controlling agent and a film-former, enhancing texture, providing a non-tacky sensation in oil-in-water emulsions, and potentially aiding in oil solubilization as a helper ingredient.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 0.5–1.2%
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

HEMA is widely identified as a significant contact allergen and sensitizer. Regulatory bodies explicitly recommend strict avoidance of skin contact, particularly when HEMA is present in higher concentrations, such as in nail products. Its inclusion in direct leave-on skincare is highly problematic due to its documented high irritancy and strong sensitization potential.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

HEMA is water-soluble and completely miscible with ethanol. It polymerizes readily at ambient temperatures, necessitating storage in air (not inert gases) with a stabilizer, as oxygen is crucial for stabilizer efficacy. Optimal storage temperatures should not exceed 35 °C to maintain stability for approximately one year.

Conflicts

  • Known as a strong sensitizer, particularly upon skin contact, leading to allergic reactions.
  • Requires precise handling and storage conditions (stabilizers, oxygen) to prevent premature polymerization.
  • Incomplete UV curing in hardened products can leave allergenic residual monomers.
  • Exhibits strong cross-allergy with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (EGDMA) and hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
35%
Sensitization risk High

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded HEMA is safe in nail enhancement products when labeled to avoid skin contact, noting its strong sensitization potential. The European SCCS permits up to 35% in nail styling products, provided use is strictly limited to the nail plate to prevent skin contact. HEMA is considered a weak to moderate sensitizer, yet EU Regulation 2020/1682 restricts its use in nail products to professional settings only, mandating allergy warning labels. The French ANSES recommends hazard classifications for skin irritation (H315), serious eye irritation (H319), and allergic skin reactions (H317), highlighting significant dermal safety concerns.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Given its significant potential for allergic contact dermatitis, documented high irritancy, and stringent regulatory restrictions mandating avoidance of skin contact, HEMA is strongly advised against for general skincare applications within the Moumoujus brand.

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