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HELIOTROPINE.

Avoid CAS 120-57-0 / FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Heliotropine, also known as piperonal, is a fragrance ingredient commonly used for its sweet, almond-like scent. While primarily a perfuming agent, it has been explored for potential antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, though clinical efficacy in skincare is unestablished.

masking perfuming skin conditioning

Science

Piperonal (Heliotropine) may function as an antioxidant by scavenging free radicals, potentially mitigating oxidative stress in cells. It could also exhibit antimicrobial activity through disruption of bacterial membranes.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Heliotropine's primary recognized function in cosmetics is as a fragrance and masking agent. While potential antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits are suggested, these are not clinically validated for skin efficacy and are not the primary reason for its inclusion, thus it is not typically 'dusted' for these claims.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Stable under recommended storage conditions, but susceptible to degradation and discoloration (turning red-brown) upon exposure to air and light. It is also combustible and may contribute to product coloration.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents
  • strong bases

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Moderate

Heliotropine is currently under evaluation by the SCCS following a recommendation by ECHA to classify it as a Class 1B reproductive toxicant (H360Fd). If this classification is adopted, its use in cosmetic products would be prohibited in the EU under Article 15(2) of the Cosmetics Regulation. The SCCS also notes some evidence of contact allergy in humans. The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) has identified a No Expected Sensitization Induction Level (NESIL) of 4100 μg/cm2 and total systemic exposure of 8.9 μg/kg/day, which is below the TTC for repeated dose toxicity (9 μg/kg/day). RIFM's Expert Panel concludes the material is safe as described in its safety assessment, with maximum acceptable concentrations defined by RIFM. The U.S. FDA lists piperonal as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) as a food additive.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Given the significant ongoing regulatory concerns regarding its potential classification as a reproductive toxicant, coupled with its known potential for skin sensitization and lack of clinically proven skincare benefits, Heliotropine is not suitable for precision skincare formulations.


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