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HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 84696-19-5 / ANTI-SEBUM, ASTRINGENT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, derived from the Witch Hazel plant, is a multi-functional botanical ingredient prized for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It actively works to refine pores, regulate sebum production, and provide a soothing effect, making it particularly beneficial for normal to oily skin types.

Summary

Astringent Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Soothing Antimicrobial Sebum Regulator

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract exerts its action by precipitating surface skin proteins, contributing to its astringent and toning effects, which helps minimize the appearance of inflammation, redness, and excess sebum. It modulates inflammatory mediators like prostaglandins and cytokines, offers antioxidant protection against UV damage and pollution, and demonstrates broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, fungi, and some viruses. Furthermore, its vasoconstrictive properties support the healing of compromised skin, tighten pores, and assist in the exfoliation of dead skin cells and dirt.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1.25–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro studies show Hamamelis Virginiana Extract at 10% (100 mg/mL) significantly reduced microbial biofilm for most Candida spp. by over 75% within 5 minutes. At 1.25% (12.5 mg/mL), it reduced biofilm formation of Candida spp., E. coli, and K. pneumoniae by over 79% after 24 hours.
  2. 02 A 10% cream containing Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Twig Extract was safely applied to UVB-damaged skin with no reported adverse effects.
  3. 03 An EpiOcular™ assay confirmed a 5% Hamamelis Virginiana Extract did not predict ocular irritation.
  4. 04 A 4-week use study of a sunless tanner with 6.02% Hamamelis Virginiana Water reported no signs of dermal irritation or comedogenic effects.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1.8%

Hamamelis Virginiana is commonly dusted due to the historical use of Witch Hazel Distillates that may contain up to 14% added alcohol (as per USP specifications), which can be significantly drying and irritating to the skin. For leave-on Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, concentrations above 1.8% (the general maximum for cosmetic use) should be carefully formulated, as 'high concentrations' are noted to potentially lead to skin irritation and dryness.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The efficacy and chemical profile of Hamamelis Virginiana extracts are highly dependent on the extraction solvent and method. Alcohol-free extracts are preferable to avoid potential skin dryness and damage. No specific optimal pH range for stability was identified in the research data.

Conflicts

  • High concentrations of the ingredient can lead to skin irritation and dryness.
  • Formulating with multiple botanical ingredients may lead to a cumulative concentration of shared constituents, potentially causing sensitization even if individual ingredients are within safe limits.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
1.8%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Hamamelis virginiana-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The U.S. FDA has approved witch hazel for inclusion in OTC formulations as an astringent (10-50%) and in skin protectant products. Formulators should prioritize alcohol-free extracts to prevent potential drying effects.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient for its proven astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial benefits, especially effective for oily and normal skin, provided alcohol-free versions are prioritized and concentrations are carefully managed.

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