Science
Mechanism of Action
Glycyrrhizic acid profoundly impacts skin health by modulating inflammatory pathways. Upon application, it is often hydrolyzed into glycyrrhetinic acid, its primary active metabolite. This compound reduces inflammation by inhibiting enzymes such as cyclooxygenase, thereby decreasing prostaglandin E2 production, and by blocking NF-κB and IRF3 signaling pathways, which in turn reduces inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α, IL-12, IL-17A, and IL-23. Its potent antioxidant properties shield the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage, while its antimicrobial effects can benefit problematic skin. Furthermore, glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, actively reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots, and also aids in restoring skin suppleness and combating 'inflammaging' for anti-aging effects.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 A topical gel containing 2% Glycyrrhizic Acid was found to be effective in reducing erythema, edema, and itching in patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis over two weeks, demonstrating superior efficacy compared to a 1% concentration.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While the CIR Expert Panel deems Glycyrrhizic Acid safe for cosmetic use up to 0.1%, clinical evidence supporting significant anti-inflammatory effects, particularly for conditions like atopic dermatitis, indicates efficacy at concentrations of 2%. This substantial disparity suggests that formulations adhering to the 0.1% cosmetic safety maximum may not achieve the robust therapeutic outcomes observed in studies, leading to potential 'dusting' for claims related to strong anti-inflammatory or soothing benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active metabolite, maintains stability across a wide pH range of 3.0 to 8.0, ensuring compatibility with most skincare systems. It is also thermostable, tolerating typical hot-process manufacturing temperatures up to 80°C when properly solubilized. Glycyrrhizic acid itself exhibits very low water solubility but readily dissolves in alcohols, oils, and specific surfactants; its ammonium salt, however, is water-soluble at pH below 4.5. High purity is crucial to minimize pesticide and heavy metal residues, ensuring product safety and efficacy.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded Glycyrrhizic Acid is safe for use in cosmetics up to 0.1%. It is poorly absorbed through the skin and is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, phototoxic agent, or photosensitizer at this maximum concentration. While licorice derivatives are generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food with some restrictions, an acceptable daily intake for oral intake has not been established due to limited human toxicity studies; an upper limit of 100 mg/day for ingestion is considered a protective measure.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Glycyrrhizic Acid is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient highly effective in soothing, protecting, and brightening the skin, though achieving its full anti-inflammatory benefits may necessitate concentrations exceeding typical cosmetic safety limits.
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