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Moumoujus

GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT.

Valuable CAS 84775-66-6 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, commonly known as Licorice Root, is a highly efficacious botanical extract recognized for its multi-faceted benefits in precision skincare. It offers potent skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, targeting hyperpigmentation while soothing irritated skin and providing robust protection against environmental damage.

Summary

soothing skin brightening antioxidant anti-inflammatory emollient moisturising smoothing depigmenting sebum regulation antibacterial

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract exerts its dermatological effects through several precise pathways. Its notable skin-brightening and depigmenting capabilities are primarily attributed to active compounds such as glabridin and liquiritin. Glabridin precisely inhibits tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanin synthesis, thereby effectively reducing and preventing various forms of hyperpigmentation, including dark spots, melasma, and sun-induced damage. Liquiritin complements this action by facilitating the dispersion and breakdown of existing melanin within the skin. For its prominent anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, glycyrrhizic acid (glycyrrhizin) and flavonoids like licochalcone A are key. Glycyrrhizin actively modulates the inflammatory cascade by decreasing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and inhibiting COX-2 and iNOS activity, which helps to significantly calm redness, irritation, and manage conditions such as acne, rosacea, and eczema. Furthermore, the extract is rich in antioxidants, including glabridin and licochalcone A, which neutralize free radicals and shield the skin from oxidative stress and environmental aggressors, contributing to anti-aging benefits and maintaining skin elasticity. Licochalcone A also plays a role in regulating sebum secretion, and the extract possesses antibacterial and antimicrobial qualities beneficial for combating acne-causing bacteria.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–10%
Optimal

While 0.5% of the active component Glabridin has demonstrated efficacy in inhibiting UVB-induced pigmentation, a 10% licorice extract cream showed significant improvements in skin brightness and clarity over a four-week period.

Key findings

  1. 01 A 10% licorice extract cream, applied twice daily for four weeks, resulted in significant improvements in skin brightness and clarity.
  2. 02 Topical application of 0.5% glabridin (a primary active component of licorice) effectively inhibited UVB-caused pigmentation in in vivo studies.
  3. 03 Clinical trials reported a 30% reduction in dark spots with consistent use over a 12-week duration.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
For general soothing or antioxidant benefits, concentrations below 0.5-1% may be indicative of dusting. For targeted skin brightening or hyperpigmentation reduction, an extract concentration below 5-10% may be insufficient.%
Red flag below
Less than 0.5% of the total extract for any functional claim, and specifically below 5% for targeted claims related to significant skin brightening or dark spot reduction.%

Clinical evidence demonstrates significant skin brightening at 10% licorice extract and effective pigmentation inhibition at 0.5% of its key active, Glabridin. As the Glabridin content within a general extract can vary, concentrations significantly below these benchmarks, especially for products making bold brightening or depigmenting claims, are unlikely to provide clinically meaningful results. Lower percentages, while potentially offering some mild benefits, often serve more for marketing claims rather than active contributions.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

To preserve the structural integrity and maximize the activity of its crucial molecules, formulations containing Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, particularly in powdered forms, should ideally be balanced within a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that Glycyrrhiza-derived ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics, showing no evidence of dermal irritation, sensitization, or mutagenicity. While high oral intake of licorice (>2 mg/kg per day of pure glycyrrhizinic acid) can lead to adverse systemic effects like elevated blood pressure, dermal exposure from cosmetic products is expected to be substantially lower due to limited skin penetration. It is generally regarded as one of the safer skin lightening agents with minimal side effects; however, individuals with highly sensitive skin may experience mild irritation, making patch testing advisable. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) notes some concerns regarding potential endocrine disruption and neurotoxicity primarily associated with oral ingestion, leading to a 'restricted' status for EWG VERIFIED™ products without adequate substantiation for dermal safety.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root is an exceptionally valuable, multi-functional ingredient, esteemed for its scientifically substantiated ability to effectively brighten, soothe, and protect the skin, accompanied by a favorable safety profile.

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