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GLYCERYL THIOGLYCOLATE.

Avoid CAS 30618-84-9 / HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING

Glyceryl Thioglycolate is a chemical reducing agent primarily employed in hair care for reshaping hair structure through the disruption of disulfide bonds. Its direct utility or benefit for skin health is currently unestablished.

Reducing Agent

Science

Operating as a potent reducing agent, Glyceryl Thioglycolate specifically cleaves the disulfide bonds integral to hair's keratin structure, enabling hair to be physically reshaped. There is no described mechanism of action for direct skincare benefits.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical observations indicate that Glyceryl Thioglycolate can elicit allergic reactions and sensitization in patients, notably at concentrations as low as 0.25%, with hairdressers being particularly affected.
  2. 02 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed its use in hair products safe at concentrations up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid), though strict recommendations for minimizing skin exposure due to irritation and sensitization potential are emphasized.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.25%
Red flag below
0.25%

Glyceryl Thioglycolate's primary application is in hair restructuring treatments. Any suggestion of its inclusion in direct skincare formulations would be highly concerning given its documented high potential for sensitization and irritation at concentrations as low as 0.25%.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 2 – 3.5
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient is prone to oxidation upon exposure to air and should be stored in tightly closed containers. While thioglycolate solutions generally exhibit broad pH stability (2-13), its optimal pH for specific applications is notably acidic.

Conflicts

  • Known to penetrate various protective materials such as rubber and vinyl gloves, posing an occupational exposure risk.
  • High potential for skin and eye irritation, necessitating extremely careful application to mitigate risk of damage or allergic reactions.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15.2%
Sensitization risk High

The CIR Expert Panel concluded Glyceryl Thioglycolate is safe for use in hair products up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid), strictly requiring minimized skin contact and exposure. It is classified as a human skin toxicant and allergen with robust evidence. The SCCS of the EU Commission also places restrictions on its use under Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Given its significant sensitization and irritation potential, lack of documented skincare benefits, and primary use in hair modification, Glyceryl Thioglycolate is unsuitable for precision skincare formulations.


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