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GLYCERYL COCOATE.

Valuable CAS 61789-05-7 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Glyceryl Cocoate, commonly known as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate in its ethoxylated form, is a multifunctional ester derived from coconut oil. It acts as an effective emollient, gentle surfactant, and stabilizing emulsifier, enhancing skin hydration and formula integrity.

Summary

Emollient Emulsifier Surfactant Solubilizer Refatting Agent Foam Booster Conditioning Agent Solvent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates on the skin primarily through three key mechanisms. As an emollient, it forms a lightweight, semi-permeable film on the skin's surface, which helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss and protect against environmental stressors, leading to softer, smoother skin. As a surfactant, it lowers the surface tension between water and oils, facilitating the suspension and removal of dirt and impurities, and contributing to lather formation. Furthermore, its emulsifying properties stabilize oil-in-water or water-in-oil formulations, preventing ingredient separation. It also functions as a solubilizer for oil-soluble components in aqueous bases, acts as a refatting agent to support the skin's natural lipid barrier post-cleansing, and serves as a conditioning agent.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Did not induce photocontact allergenicity in SPF 15 facial creams during clinical trials.
  2. 02 Intracutaneous injection demonstrated no sensitization or ocular irritation.
  3. 03 In a Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) on 205 subjects, it was generally not a sensitizer, though one subject presented with mild erythema and edema.
  4. 04 Dermal application yielded varied results, with two studies showing no irritation and one indicating slight irritation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits robust chemical stability within a pH range of 5.0 to 8.0, encompassing most cosmetic formulations. It can be directly incorporated into formulas and is compatible with anionic and amphoteric surfactants.

Synergies

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Amphoteric surfactants

Conflicts

  • Direct application to damaged skin
  • Contamination with 1,4-dioxane if not properly purified

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate safe for rinse-off applications and safe up to 10% in leave-on products, a limit based on ocular and sensitization data. A primary concern is potential contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogenic byproduct of the ethoxylation process; however, this can be minimized through stringent purification. The FDA actively monitors cosmetic ingredients to ensure safe levels of 1,4-dioxane. California Proposition 65 advises that products containing this ingredient may expose individuals to chemicals like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. It is explicitly not recommended for use on damaged skin due to heightened sensitization and toxicity considerations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Glyceryl Cocoate is a versatile, low-irritancy ingredient that effectively softens skin, enhances cleansing, and stabilizes formulations, although careful consideration of its concentration and application to damaged skin is advised due to potential 1,4-dioxane contamination and mild sensitization risk.

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