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GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS FLOWER/LEAF/STEM OIL.

Questionable CAS 90045-28-6 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS FLOWER/LEAF/STEM OIL, commonly known as wintergreen oil, is an essential oil rich in methyl salicylate (85-99%). It is recognized for its traditional use in formulations for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, alongside its distinct aromatic profile.

masking perfuming astringent

Science

This oil primarily acts via its methyl salicylate content, which, akin to aspirin, is absorbed topically to provide localized anesthetic and pain-reducing effects. It stimulates microcirculation, inducing a warming sensation, and possesses astringent qualities that may help refine pores and manage excess sebum. Furthermore, it exhibits in vitro antibacterial, moderate antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities, contributing to skin clarity and protection.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

0.06%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations above ~2-5% have been associated with mild skin irritation, attributed to methyl salicylate content.
  2. 02 Cosmetics guidelines recommend a maximum concentration of ≤0.06% for leave-on products to ensure safety.
  3. 03 A case report documented erythema and bullous lesions with 10% topical application once daily for three days.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.06%
Red flag below
2%

Despite being used at 5-10% in traditional applications for temporary discomfort relief, cosmetic safety guidelines severely restrict its use to ≤0.06% in leave-on products. This substantial disparity means that its purported benefits (e.g., anti-inflammatory, astringent) are unlikely to be clinically significant at safe cosmetic concentrations, positioning it primarily as a masking or perfuming agent. Irritation can manifest at concentrations as low as 2-5%.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

For optimal stability, formulations containing this ingredient require opaque, airtight packaging.

Conflicts

  • Not safe during pregnancy
  • Not safe with anticoagulants
  • Not safe for children (especially under 2 years old topically, any oral use)
  • Not safe for individuals with aspirin sensitivity
  • Oral use may aggravate stomach ulcers
  • May cause rubefacient effect if used too frequently or in high concentrations

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.06%
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Moderate

While generally considered possibly safe for topical use, it can induce skin irritation at concentrations exceeding ~2-5%. It is classified as a weak sensitizer and can be eye-damaging at high exposures. Oral ingestion of even small amounts (e.g., 6 mL) can be fatal. It is strictly contraindicated during pregnancy, for children, individuals with aspirin sensitivity, or those on anticoagulants due to risks of bleeding or teratogenic effects.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Questionable

Due to strict safety guidelines limiting its concentration to ≤0.06% in leave-on cosmetic products and associated irritation risks, its utility for active skincare benefits is questionable; its primary roles in precision skincare formulations are likely limited to masking and perfuming.


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