Science
Mechanism of Action
The mechanism of Frangula Alnus Bark involves its anthranoid compounds, such as frangulin, which contribute to its observed antioxidant, antibacterial, fungicidal, and antiviral activities. Extracts may also modulate bacterial membrane permeability, potentially disrupting microbial integrity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to significant safety concerns regarding potential irritation and cellular damage, this ingredient is unlikely to be 'dusted' at sub-efficacious concentrations. The primary challenge lies in establishing a safe and effective concentration range for topical cosmetic applications, which remains largely undefined.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Extracts demonstrate moderate solubility in distilled water and enhanced solubility in more polar alcoholic solutions like ethanol. Frangulin, a key constituent, is soluble in alkaline solutions. The ingredient's natural color exhibits pH sensitivity, presenting as golden yellows in acidic conditions and shifting to brick reds at alkaline pH values between 10-11.
Safety
Safety Profile
Frangula Alnus Bark is currently listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) 2023 and 2024 Draft Priority Lists for forthcoming assessment. There is no specific SCCS opinion or FDA status for its topical cosmetic use. Fresh bark is known to be irritating and emetic, thus requiring aging for approximately one year or heat treatment prior to use to reduce irritating anthrones. A study on human peripheral blood lymphocytes indicated that a bark extract concentration of 500 µg/ml induced cell death and DNA damage. Furthermore, emodin, a component, increased reactive oxygen species (ROS) at 25 µg/ml, suggesting potential cyto/genotoxicity at certain concentrations and advising significant caution. The European Medicines Agency (EMA) recognizes Frangula Alnus bark as a traditional herbal medicinal product for short-term use in cases of constipation, which pertains to internal, not topical, application.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Given the substantial unaddressed safety concerns, including documented potential for irritation, cell death, and DNA damage at specific concentrations, coupled with a lack of clear clinical efficacy data for topical skin benefits, this ingredient is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.
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