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FICIN.

Valuable CAS 9001-33-6 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Ficin is a proteolytic enzyme derived from figs, celebrated for its gentle yet effective exfoliating action that precisely removes dead skin cells without irritation. Beyond promoting cell renewal and refining skin texture, it offers potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and brightening benefits, making it a multifaceted active for comprehensive skin health.

Exfoliant Skin Conditioner Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Brightening Anti-acne

Science

As a cysteine protease, Ficin operates by selectively hydrolyzing keratin protein bonds and cleaving peptide bonds on the skin's surface. This enzymatic action gently dissolves dead skin cells, promoting cellular turnover and leading to improved skin texture and clarity. It actively cleanses pores, helps to reduce blackheads and imperfections, and minimizes inflammation, supporting anti-acne and antiseptic effects. Ficin also influences melanin production, contributing to a more even skin tone and reduction in pigmentation. Its ability to remove the superficial dead cell layer enhances the absorption of subsequent active ingredients. Furthermore, ficin exhibits peroxidase activity, providing antioxidant benefits by scavenging free radicals (DPPH and H2O2), and demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects by suppressing nitric oxide production and iNOS expression, thereby calming redness and irritation.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.01–0.5%
Optimal

0.2%


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Insufficient data available to assess dusting practices for ficin.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Ficin's proteolytic activity is highest at pH 7.0, while immobilized ficin and peroxidase-like activity thrive in slightly acidic conditions, with optimal pH 6.0 for immobilized enzyme and pH 4.5-5.0 for peroxidase activity. Optimal pH for peptide hydrolysis is 5.7. It is crucial to incorporate ficin into cosmetic formulations during the final preparation phase, ensuring temperatures remain below 40°C to preserve enzymatic integrity. Ficin's efficacy is sensitive to various formulation parameters, including temperature, enzyme concentration, and overall product stability.

Conflicts

  • cysteine (specifically from chicken, as it acts as an inhibitor)
  • other reducing agents (some may be required for activation, but specific generalized incompatibilities are not fully detailed beyond chicken cysteine)
  • iodoacetamide
  • iodoacetic acid
  • N-ethylmaleimide
  • mercuric chloride
  • DFP (diisopropyl fluorophosphate)
  • TLCK (Na-p-Tosyl-lysine chloromethyl ketone)
  • TPCK (N-Tosyl-L-phenylalanine chloromethyl ketone)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Unknown

Ficin is categorized as 'Generally Recognized as Safe' (GRAS) by the FDA for its use as an enzyme and processing aid in food products. However, there is no specific Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) or Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) assessment available for its cosmetic application. In the United States, cosmetic products and their ingredients, excluding color additives, do not mandate pre-market FDA approval.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

Ficin is a valuable multi-functional enzyme offering gentle exfoliation, antioxidant defense, and anti-inflammatory benefits, suitable for all skin types seeking improved texture and clarity.


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