Science
Mechanism of Action
The ingredient functions by providing bioavailable low molecular weight (LMW) keratins and amino acids, which are products of the enzymatic degradation of chicken feathers by *Fervidobacterium islandicum*. In vitro and ex vivo studies indicate these LMW keratins suppress the expression of ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-13 in human dermal fibroblasts. This suppressive effect is mediated by inhibiting the UVB-induced phosphorylation of key signaling molecules including Akts, c-Jun N-terminal kinases 1, p38 beta, and RSK2, thereby preserving the structural integrity of the skin's extracellular matrix.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Low molecular weight keratins significantly suppressed the expression of UVB-induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-13 in human dermal fibroblasts, suggesting anti-skin aging activity.
- 02 LMW feather keratins marginally inhibited collagenase, elastase, and radical scavenging activities.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While the keratinolytic protease used in its production shows optimal activity at 100°C and pH 9, and the bacterium grows optimally between pH 6.5-7.8, these parameters relate to the ingredient's creation process rather than the stability of the final cosmetic ingredient itself.
Safety
Safety Profile
Direct safety assessments from major regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA specifically for Fervidobacterium Islandicum/Chicken Feather Ferment Filtrate are not available. Although general ferment filtrates have been reviewed, this specific combination lacks dedicated public safety reports, and Paula's Choice lists it as 'Not rated'.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient offers valuable anti-aging potential through specific inhibition of UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinases; however, comprehensive safety and skin compatibility data for this novel ferment are presently undefined.
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