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EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT.

Avoid CAS 90028-68-5 / 9000-50-4 / 68917-10-2 / PERFUMING

Evernia Prunastri Lichen Extract, derived from oakmoss, possesses a range of purported benefits including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, with some indications of depigmentation potential. However, its primary utility in cosmetics is as a perfuming agent, and it is widely recognized as a potent dermal sensitizer.

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Antimicrobial Depigmenting (potential) Perfuming

Science

This lichen extract demonstrates robust antioxidant activity by effectively scavenging free radicals and chelating metal ions that contribute to oxidative stress. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities stem from the inhibition of enzymes like cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, it exhibits antimicrobial action against various bacteria and fungi, and preliminary research suggests a potential for reducing hyperpigmentation through anti-tyrosinase activity.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.02%
Red flag below
0.02%

Due to its potent sensitizing components, Evernia Prunastri Lichen Extract is subject to strict regulatory concentration limits (e.g., 0.020% for lip products, 0.10% for fine fragrance). While legally required to be used in low concentrations for safety, its inclusion for purported skincare benefits at these sub-threshold levels may not yield significant clinical efficacy, effectively making it a dusted ingredient for active claims. Its principal contribution remains as a fragrance component.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits good stability when stored away from light, heat, and air; however, it can be sensitive to oxidation over prolonged periods.

Conflicts

  • Potential for dermal sensitization, particularly in sensitive individuals, due to allergenic compounds such as atranorin and evernic acid.

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.02%
Sensitization risk High

This ingredient is a well-established dermal sensitizer, primarily attributed to allergenic components like atranorin and evernic acid. Its use in cosmetic products is strictly regulated by bodies such as the SCCS and IFRA, with maximum allowable concentrations varying significantly by product category (e.g., 0.020% for lip products, 0.10% for fine fragrance), reflecting its high sensitization potential.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Due to its classification as a potent dermal sensitizer and high irritancy risk, coupled with its primary function as a fragrance agent rather than a proven skincare active, this ingredient is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.


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