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Moumoujus

EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT.

Avoid CAS 90028-68-5 / 9000-50-4 / 68917-10-2 / PERFUMING

Evernia Prunastri Extract, derived from oakmoss, is primarily valued in cosmetics for its distinctive aromatic profile. While *in vitro* studies suggest potential antioxidant and anti-biofilm properties, it is widely recognized as a significant skin allergen. Its inclusion introduces a considerable risk of sensitization for topical applications.

Summary

Perfuming Antioxidant (in vitro) Antimicrobial (in vitro)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract acts predominantly as a perfuming agent. *In vitro* investigations indicate it possesses antioxidant capabilities through free radical scavenging and the chelation of metal ions like Fe2+ and Cu2+. It has also demonstrated antimicrobial and anti-biofilm activities. Its primary active compounds include evernic acid, atranorin, and usnic acid, with some studies also showing enzyme inhibition effects.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 4–2590%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant *in vitro* antioxidant activity, effective at concentrations from 200 µg/mL (H2O2 scavenging) to 2.59 mg/mL (DPPH scavenging), and capable of reducing copper ions.
  2. 02 Exhibited *in vitro* anti-biofilm activity, inhibiting maturation and eradicating preformed biofilms at concentrations below 4-10 µg/mL.
  3. 03 Capable of chelating Fe2+ and Cu2+ ions *in vitro* in a dose-dependent manner.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.01%

Evernia Prunastri Extract is almost exclusively utilized for its fragrance. Despite *in vitro* data suggesting potential antioxidant and anti-biofilm benefits, these lack *in vivo* validation for human skin. Given its high sensitization risk, any inclusion primarily for purported 'beneficial' claims rather than fragrance constitutes dusting, as the risk often outweighs any unproven topical benefit.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The extract exhibits good stability when protected from light, heat, and air, though it is susceptible to oxidation over extended periods.

Conflicts

  • Components such as atranol and chloroatranol are potent sensitizers, with their content strictly limited to 100 ppm by IFRA regulations.
  • Incomplete solubility in alcohol may necessitate specific formulation adjustments like gentle warming or proper pre-dilution.
  • The ingredient should be avoided in formulations targeting individuals with known skin sensitization issues.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.01%
Sensitization risk High

Evernia Prunastri Extract is a well-documented allergen, primarily due to constituents like atranorin and chloroatranol. The SCCS has classified it as a restricted ingredient in the EC Cosmetics Regulation (Annex III) due to its significant sensitizing potential. It is one of the 26 fragrance allergens requiring explicit listing in EU cosmetic ingredient lists when used above specific concentration thresholds, being a principal cause of contact sensitivity to perfumes.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Given its extremely high sensitization risk and its primary role as a fragrance rather than a validated active for skin benefits, Evernia Prunastri Extract is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.

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