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Moumoujus

ETHYLHEXYL DIMETHYL PABA.

Avoid CAS 21245-02-3 / LIGHT STABILIZER, UV ABSORBER, UV FILTER

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, also known as Padimate O, is an organic chemical UV-B filter designed to absorb ultraviolet radiation between 280-320 nm. While effective in preventing sunburn, its safety profile raises significant concerns for precision skincare applications.

Summary

uv filter chemical sunscreen light stabilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This compound primarily functions by absorbing UV-B radiation, converting it into less harmful infrared energy (heat) to protect skin from sun damage, photoaging, and associated cancer risks. It can also stabilize cosmetic formulations against UV-induced deterioration. However, research indicates that when activated by light, it can directly damage DNA and increase mutagenicity, potentially contributing to sun-induced cancer despite its initial protective role.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–8%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 The maximum allowed concentration in sunscreens and cosmetics in the EU, US, and Korea is 8%. A risk assessment at this concentration yielded a Margin of Safety (MOS) of 180.18, suggesting a safety margin.
  2. 02 Cosmetic products in Korea typically use concentrations around 1.25%, ranging from 0.5% to 2.0%.
  3. 03 Studies demonstrated no skin irritation on normal and damaged rabbit skin at 5% for 24 hours, and no irritation in human patch tests at 5% for 48 hours.
  4. 04 Human studies showed no skin sensitization at concentrations of 1.5%, 4%, and 7%, even when combined with 3% oxybenzone.
  5. 05 In vitro cell tests (25-100 mg/mL) revealed that Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA inhibited cell growth, DNA synthesis, and delayed cell cycle progression.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA presents significant red flags for precision skincare due to its potential for light-activated DNA damage and increased mutagenicity, directly contradicting its intended protective function. Furthermore, it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor, carcinogen, and can generate free radicals upon photodegradation. These inherent risks make it unsuitable for formulations prioritizing ultimate skin health and safety, regardless of concentration.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient is an oily, yellowish liquid, insoluble in water but soluble in oil, alcohol, and strong acids/bases. Its oil-soluble nature is advantageous for emulsion and water-resistant formulations. However, it is prone to photodegradation, which diminishes its efficacy and can generate reactive free radicals; therefore, photostabilizers are typically required in formulations.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Deferred evaluation
Max tested
8%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel has deferred evaluation, citing assessment by the FDA, which approves its use as an active sunscreen ingredient up to 8%. The SCCS found no estrogenic effects. However, concerns persist regarding potential organ toxicity (testis, epididymis, spleen, liver) in animal studies. It is suspected as an endocrine disruptor, carcinogen, mutagen, and can be an irritant at high concentrations. It is prone to photodegradation, reducing efficacy and producing free radicals. It is not recommended for infants or individuals with very sensitive skin and is considered 'not an unfrequent allergen' in sunscreens.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite its effectiveness as a UVB filter, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA's documented potential for light-activated DNA damage, mutagenicity, and suspected endocrine disruption makes it unsuitable for precision skincare formulations where ultimate safety and cellular integrity are paramount.

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