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ETHYL THIOGLYCOLATE.

Avoid CAS 623-51-8 / DEPILATORY, HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING, REDUCING

Ethyl Thioglycolate is a chemical reducing agent primarily utilized in hair care for its ability to break disulfide bonds in keratin, facilitating hair reshaping or removal. While effective for its intended purpose in hair products, it presents significant safety concerns for direct skin application.

Summary

Depilatory Hair Waving or Straightening Reducing Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

It functions as a potent reducing agent by cleaving the disulfide bonds within keratin proteins, a key structural component of hair. This molecular alteration allows for the chemical manipulation of hair structure, enabling processes like permanent waving, straightening, or chemical depilation. Its mechanism is specific to protein bond modification, rather than offering broad skin benefits.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

Ethyl Thioglycolate is commonly considered a 'dusted' ingredient for general skincare due to its potent, hair-modifying mechanism and documented risks of skin irritation and sensitization. Its primary function is for specific chemical treatments of hair (depilation, perms), not for routine skin benefits. Regulatory bodies restrict its use and advise minimizing skin exposure.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Ethyl Thioglycolate is sensitive to air, light, and moisture, requiring storage under inert gas in a cool (<15°C or 2-8°C) and dark environment. Exposure to air leads to oxidation, and this oxidation process is accelerated by increasing pH and storage temperature. Container material can also impact stability, with glass showing better performance than polyolefin for related compounds. Its pKa is 7.95(SH) at 25°C.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents
  • strong bases

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15.2%
Sensitization risk High

The CIR Expert Panel deems Ethyl Thioglycolate safe for use in hair products up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid), with a strong recommendation for hairdressers to avoid skin contact and minimize consumer skin exposure. The SCCS prohibits its use in eyelash applications since July 2013. Thioglycolates are classified as minimal to severe ocular irritants and have the potential to be skin irritants and sensitizers. Related Thioglycolic acid is categorized as Skin Corr. 1B (H314), indicating it causes severe skin burns and eye damage. However, when used strictly according to package directions, depilatory products containing these compounds can be practically non-irritating.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Due to its potent hair-modifying mechanism and documented risks of significant skin irritation and sensitization, Ethyl Thioglycolate is not recommended for general skincare formulations, despite its restricted use in specialized hair care products.

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