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Moumoujus

ENDOMYCES/AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM FERMENT FILTRATE.

Insufficient Data / SKIN CONDITIONING

This fermented horse chestnut extract, produced with *Endomyces* yeast, harnesses the potent bioactives of *Aesculus Hippocastanum*, such as escin and flavonoids. The fermentation process is designed to enhance the bioavailability of these compounds, improving their penetration and efficacy within the skin. It aims to strengthen capillaries, improve microcirculation, and support the skin's natural barrier function.

Summary

Emollient Antioxidant Soothing Anti-inflammatory Vaso-strengthening Microcirculation enhancing Astringent Barrier support Moisture retention Collagen boosting Elasticity improvement

Science

Mechanism of Action

The ingredient operates by delivering key bioactive components of Horse Chestnut, primarily escin, flavonoids, and saponins, in a more bioavailable form due to *Endomyces* yeast fermentation. Escin strengthens blood vessel walls and optimizes skin microcirculation, which effectively diminishes fluid leakage, thereby reducing the appearance of edema, redness, and swelling, while also providing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protection. Flavonoids contribute additional antioxidant defense against oxidative stress. The fermentation process itself generates a spectrum of diverse metabolites, including various saponins and glycosides, which collectively support enhanced skin barrier function, superior moisture retention, reduced inflammation, and improved skin elasticity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.3 – 5.8
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient maintains microbiological stability within a pH range of 3.3 to 5.8, a characteristic attributed to its fermentation process. Formulators should note that this optimal pH is more acidic than the typically neutral pH (approximately 6.5) often targeted for general cosmetic products to ensure optimal skin compatibility.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Unknown

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has categorized this ingredient under a broader assessment of yeast-derived ingredients, for which insufficient data has been identified. A specific safety determination for *Endomyces/Aesculus Hippocastanum Ferment Filtrate* has not been explicitly made as 'safe as used' or 'safe with restrictions', with the Panel requesting confirmatory dermal sensitization data and information on the GRAS status of the specific yeast species used. While *Saccharomyces cerevisiae* is affirmed as GRAS for food use up to 5%, this does not directly apply to *Endomyces*.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Insufficient Data

This ingredient offers theoretical benefits for improving microcirculation, reducing inflammation, and enhancing skin barrier function through fermentation, but its safety profile is currently categorized as having insufficient data by the CIR Expert Panel.

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