Science
Mechanism of Action
As a polyunsaturated fatty acid, Eicosatrienoic Acid serves as a precursor to eicosanoids, a diverse group of signaling molecules that regulate epidermal homeostasis, keratinocyte proliferation, and inflammatory responses in the skin. Specifically, the 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid isomer has been shown to inhibit matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression following UV exposure in human keratinocytes, suggesting a photoprotective mechanism. Another isomer, Δ11,14,17-20:3 (ETrA), exhibits mild anti-inflammatory properties by suppressing LPS-stimulated nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB)-mediated nitric oxide (NO) production and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression in murine cells.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data available to suggest Eicosatrienoic Acid is commonly 'dusted' or used at excessive concentrations in cosmetic formulations that would pose a known risk.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
As a polyunsaturated fatty acid, Eicosatrienoic Acid is inherently susceptible to oxidation. For optimal stability and to prevent degradation, it is crucial to store this ingredient in a dry, cool environment, specifically avoiding contact with oxidizers.
Conflicts
- Oxidizers
Safety
Safety Profile
Eicosatrienoic Acid has not undergone specific safety review by major cosmetic regulatory bodies such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), or U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). While an MSDS for one isomer (11(Z),14(Z),17(Z)-Eicosatrienoic acid) indicates it is not classified as toxic, an in vitro study revealed that at higher concentrations, a specific isomer (5,8,11, n-9) stimulated the growth of human squamous cell carcinoma cells, raising significant safety concerns for its use in cosmetic applications without clear, established maximum concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite indications of photoprotective and mild anti-inflammatory properties, the significant concern regarding its ability to stimulate human squamous cell carcinoma cell growth at higher concentrations, coupled with an unreviewed safety status for cosmetic use, warrants avoiding Eicosatrienoic Acid in formulations.
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References
Sources