Science
Mechanism of Action
Upon penetrating the skin, DI-VCP is enzymatically converted into active ascorbic acid by tissue phosphatases. This active form functions as a potent antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals and protecting against cellular damage. It actively promotes Type I collagen synthesis, stimulates dermal cell renewal, and inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), thereby contributing to anti-aging effects. Additionally, DI-VCP interferes with melanin formation by inhibiting tyrosinase, preventing hyperpigmentation and offering skin brightening benefits. It also demonstrates anti-acne activity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Increased proliferation of normal human dermal fibroblasts by 123% and NB1RGB fibroblasts by 135%. Stimulated Type I collagen synthesis with maximum increases of 126% in NHDFs and 1067% in NB1RGBs.
- 02 Decreased melanin synthesis to 21% of control in human skin models (at 1.0%) without cytotoxicity. Reduced melanin synthesis to 23% in melanoma cells (at 300 microM) and 52% in normal human melanocytes (at 100 microM).
- 03 Increased dermal ascorbic acid levels by 20-30% from baseline and reversed neuropathic hyperalgesia in rats.
- 04 Provided significant protection against cell damage from UVB, UVA, and H2O2. Increased Type I collagen following UVA irradiation in a concentration-dependent manner and suppressed 65% of excess MMP-1 induced by UVA.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Disodium Isostearyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is a highly active and efficacious Vitamin C derivative. Its demonstrable clinical benefits in areas like collagen stimulation, melanin reduction, and photoprotection warrant its use at effective concentrations, making it unsuitable for 'dusting' at sub-efficacious levels.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
As an amphiphilic Vitamin C derivative, DI-VCP exhibits improved stability. For optimal performance, formulations should maintain a pH above 6.5. It is sensitive to heat, moisture, low pH, and heavy metals. Incorporate into formulations at temperatures below 40°C, though short-term exposure up to 80°C is permissible. Finished products should be stored below 25°C. The use of a buffer system and a chelating agent is recommended. Non-ionic emulsifiers may enhance stability. To improve color stability, 0.05–0.1% sodium metabisulphite can be added. Pre-boiling the aqueous phase for 10 minutes helps remove dissolved oxygen, and combining water-soluble and oil-soluble antioxidants further protects the formulation.
Synergies
- Chelating agents
- Buffer systems
- Non-ionic emulsifiers
- Sodium metabisulphite (for color stability)
- Combinations of water-soluble and oil-soluble antioxidants
Conflicts
- Heavy metals
- Low pH values (generally below 6.5)
- Oxygen
- Benzoyl peroxide (can oxidize vitamin C)
- Retinols (potential pH incompatibility in some applications)
- Specific antioxidants (e.g., ferulic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, rosmarinic extract, propyl gallate, tert-butylhydroquinone)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel considers Ascorbic Acid and its related salts (e.g., Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) safe for cosmetic use. Disodium Isostearyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is considered innocuous against skin cells and is listed in the FDA Global Substance Registration System (UNII 5EN0DE4P7X). No GHS classification or hazard statements have been reported. Its derivative nature generally implies a lower likelihood of irritation compared to other forms of Vitamin C, although individual sensitivities may vary.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Disodium Isostearyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is a valuable, stable vitamin C derivative offering broad-spectrum benefits, including potent antioxidant protection, significant collagen stimulation, effective melanin reduction, and anti-aging properties, all with high skin compatibility.
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