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Moumoujus

DIETHANOLAMINE.

Avoid CAS 111-42-2 / BUFFERING

Diethanolamine (DEA) is an organic compound primarily utilized in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifier, surfactant, and pH adjuster. It helps maintain product consistency and stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant pH adjusting Foam boosting

Science

Mechanism of Action

DEA functions by promoting foam, stabilizing emulsions to prevent phase separation, and balancing pH levels. Its alkaline nature allows it to neutralize acidic ingredients, optimizing overall product performance and texture.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 0.092–0.28%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro human skin penetration studies indicate that free diethanolamine from shampoo formulations (0.092-0.28%) resulted in 0.08-0.09% absorption into receptor fluid and 2.8-2.9% accumulation in the skin over 24 hours.
  2. 02 A body lotion containing 0.18% diethanolamine led to 0.9% absorption into receptor fluid and 10.0% accumulation in the skin after 24 hours, with 29.2% skin accumulation over a 72-hour repeated dose study.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

Despite its functional roles, DEA is a frequently 'dusted' ingredient due to significant safety concerns. It is prohibited in cosmetics by the EU, classified as 'possibly carcinogenic' by IARC (Group 2B), and listed on California's Proposition 65 as a cancer-causing agent.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

DEA is a strong base (0.1 N aqueous solution pH of 11.0) and remains stable at typical use temperatures.

Conflicts

  • Nitrites (due to formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines)
  • Strong acids
  • Strong oxidizers
  • Some metals
  • Halogenated organics

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk High

The EU prohibits DEA in cosmetics, while the FDA advises consumer awareness without a ban. It is listed on California's Prop 65 and classified as 'possibly carcinogenic' by IARC. A major concern is its potential to form carcinogenic nitrosamines when combined with nitrites, prompting specific daily exposure limits for topical medicinal products by the SCCS.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Given significant safety concerns, including potential carcinogenicity and strict regulatory restrictions in key markets, Diethanolamine is generally considered an ingredient to avoid in precision skincare formulations.

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