Science
Mechanism of Action
As a diester, DI-C12-15 ALKYL MALEATE exerts its emollient properties by forming a thin film on the skin's surface, which helps to reduce transepidermal water loss and promote a smoother skin texture. It contributes to skin conditioning and acts as a solvent within cosmetic systems. It is important to note that maleic esters are known to hydrolyze, forming maleic acid under aqueous conditions, although the diester itself is not acidic.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient is susceptible to hydrolysis in water-based formulations, converting to maleic acid. This indicates potential stability challenges in aqueous systems or within certain pH ranges, which could compromise product integrity over time.
Conflicts
- Aqueous conditions
- Specific pH ranges (due to hydrolysis risk)
Safety
Safety Profile
DI-C12-15 ALKYL MALEATE has not been specifically reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel; however, a related class, 'Dialkyl Malates', was deemed safe. An Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals (AICIS) evaluation indicates that long-chain maleic diesters are not expected to be irritating to skin or eyes, nor do they pose carcinogenic or mutagenic potential. Despite this, a significant concern is the documented evidence of skin sensitization reactions in human patch tests at concentrations between 5% and 10%. GHS classification for this ingredient showed no listed hazard statements.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Due to a documented high risk of skin sensitization at concentrations commonly used for emollience (5-10%) and potential stability issues in aqueous formulations, this ingredient is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.
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References
Sources