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DEA-HYDROLYZED LECITHIN.

Avoid CAS - / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

DEA-HYDROLYZED LECITHIN is a synthetic derivative of lecithin, primarily employed for its surfactant, emulsifying, and viscosity-controlling properties in cosmetic formulations. While it also exhibits skin-conditioning and penetration-enhancing effects, its safety profile raises significant concerns.

Antistatic Emulsifying Hair Conditioning Foam Boosting Skin Conditioning Viscosity Controlling Surfactant Lubricating Penetration Enhancement

Science

This ingredient functions by lowering surface tension, acting as a surfactant and foam booster. It stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions as an emulsifier and can modify the texture of formulations by controlling viscosity. Furthermore, it possesses the ability to enhance the cutaneous penetration of other substances, and offers lubricating properties beneficial for delicate skin cleansing products.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Red flag below
0%

Given the explicit regulatory ban in Europe and the severe safety concerns regarding carcinogenic nitrosamine formation, this ingredient is not considered for inclusion in reputable formulations and is therefore not subject to 'dusting' in modern precision skincare.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Hydrolyzed Lecithin, including its derivatives, generally demonstrates stability across a broad pH range of 3.0 to 9.0.

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating agents (due to the high risk of carcinogenic nitrosamine formation from the Diethanolamine (DEA) component)
  • Ingredients whose safety relies on minimal skin absorption (due to this ingredient's potential to enhance penetration into the skin, which could compromise the safety profile of co-formulated ingredients)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
0%
Sensitization risk Unknown

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel determined that lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin derivatives should be restricted from cosmetic products where N-nitroso compounds could potentially form, due to the risk of nitrosamine generation. Crucially, DEA-HYDROLYZED LECITHIN is explicitly forbidden for use in cosmetic products within the European Union, mandating a maximum concentration of 0%. This stringent regulation stems from significant safety concerns, primarily the potential for its Diethanolamine (DEA) component to react and form carcinogenic nitrosamines. While general lecithin and hydrolyzed lecithin are recognized as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food by the FDA, this designation does not extend to the DEA-modified variant in cosmetic applications, which faces severe regulatory restrictions globally.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

DEA-HYDROLYZED LECITHIN is strictly prohibited in European cosmetic formulations due to its potential to form carcinogenic nitrosamines, rendering it unsuitable for any precision skincare application.


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