Science
Mechanism of Action
This compound primarily functions by reducing the sulfur-to-sulfur (disulfide) bonds found in hair's keratin structure, leading to a chemical alteration that facilitates reshaping, such as permanent waving or straightening. It is crucial to distinguish this from Cysteamine (a related but distinct compound), which acts as an antioxidant by scavenging free radicals, reduces lysosomal cystine accumulation, and inhibits tyrosinase activity to diminish melanin production for depigmenting effects on skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Given that Cysteamine Thioglycolate's primary documented efficacy is for hair modification, and direct clinical evidence for its specific benefits in skincare, such as depigmentation or anti-aging, is not provided (with such benefits being observed only for related Cysteamine compounds), its inclusion in skincare products for skin-specific outcomes could be considered 'dusting'.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Cysteamine Thioglycolate used in acid perm agents is stable at high temperatures, which helps avoid the neutralization by-products often seen with Cysteamine HCl. Thioglycolates, including Thioglycolic Acid, are prone to oxidation when exposed to air, suggesting improved stability when stored in glass containers.
Conflicts
- Oxidizing agents (air)
Safety
Safety Profile
Cysteamine Thioglycolate is subject to restrictions under Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation after assessment by the SCCS. While specific maximum concentrations for Cysteamine Thioglycolate were not directly found, it falls under the broader category of 'Thioglycolic acid and its salts'. For these, the SCCS has provided restrictions: up to 8% for general hair waving/straightening use (pH 7-9.5), up to 11% for professional hair waving/straightening use (pH 7-9.5), up to 5% for depilatories (pH 7-12.7), and up to 2% for rinse-off hair products (pH up to 9.5). The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) for Thioglycolates noted that they can be skin irritants and sensitizers, and minimal to severe ocular irritants, although products are typically formulated to be practically non-irritating under recommended use conditions. FDA status is unknown.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While Cysteamine Thioglycolate is a well-established agent for modifying hair structure, there is insufficient direct clinical data to support its efficacy for precision skincare applications; documented skin benefits are attributed to related Cysteamine compounds.
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References
Sources