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CYMBOPOGON FLEXUOSUS LEAF OIL.

Avoid / FRAGRANCE

Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil, commonly known as Lemongrass essential oil, is a botanical extract containing volatile compounds that confer antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. However, its application in advanced skincare is severely limited by a very narrow therapeutic window and a pronounced risk of irritation and dermal damage.

perfuming antioxidant anti-inflammatory antimicrobial antifungal astringent oil-control

Science

This oil acts through components like citral to exhibit antimicrobial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory effects, evidenced by its modulation of gene expression related to inflammation and tissue remodeling. It functions as an antioxidant, scavenging free radicals to potentially mitigate skin damage. Additionally, it may improve microcirculation and offers astringent qualities that can temporarily refine pores and manage excess oil.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.0012–0.0012%
Optimal

0.0012%

Key findings

  1. 01 In pre-inflamed human dermal fibroblasts, this concentration significantly inhibited inflammatory biomarkers (VCAM-1, IP-10, I-TAC, MIG) and reduced tissue remodeling biomarkers (collagen-I and III, EGFR, PAI-1), alongside the immunomodulatory biomarker M-CSF. Critically, concentrations of 0.0037% and 0.011% (v/v) were found to be cytotoxic in the same model, highlighting an exceptionally narrow effective range. While 0.5% (w/w) in chitosan bioactive films showed over 70% cellular viability, this formulation method does not directly translate to efficacy for topical skin application.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.0037%
Red flag below
0.0037%

Despite evidence of specific benefits at extremely low concentrations, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil is a significant red flag for 'dusting' due to its 'worst' INCIDecoder rating and high irritancy. Formulators often include it for its perceived 'natural' anti-inflammatory or oil-control benefits without adequate consideration for its very narrow therapeutic index; concentrations exceeding 0.0037% (v/v) have been shown to be cytotoxic, and it poses risks of irritation, compromised skin barrier, and pro-oxidation with air exposure.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The hydrophobic nature, limited water solubility, and high volatility of Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil present significant formulation challenges. It is soluble in alcohols and fixed oils. For enhanced solubility and stability, formulation into nanoemulsions using nonionic surfactants such as Tween 80 may be necessary. Products containing this ingredient must be stored in tightly closed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from direct sunlight, to mitigate degradation and pro-oxidant conversion.

Conflicts

  • High concentrations on skin due to severe irritation risk
  • Exposure to air, as volatile compounds can become pro-oxidant

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk High

This ingredient carries a high risk of skin irritation, particularly at higher concentrations, and can lead to visible reactions, a weakened skin barrier, and potentially contribute to premature aging over time. Its volatile compounds, including citral, linalool, geraniol, limonene, and citronellol, are known irritants and can become pro-oxidant upon air exposure. EWG Skin Deep restricts its use in EWG VERIFIED products without sufficient substantiation, citing concerns. It is not recommended for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Due to its extremely narrow therapeutic window, demonstrated cytotoxicity at slightly elevated concentrations, high irritation potential, and pro-oxidant risk upon air exposure, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.


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