Science
Mechanism of Action
This compound, a cyclohexyl carbamate, primarily functions as a potential skin lightening active by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, which is crucial for melanin synthesis. Additionally, related compounds have shown anti-aging potential by modulating gene expression in skin cells, specifically by increasing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and decreasing their inhibitors (TIMPs), which can impact collagen breakdown and wrinkle formation. Crucially, the ingredient itself is also known for its cytotoxic effects on melanocytes and its irritating properties to the skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Phenylcarbamates as a class generally demonstrate high stability in acidic aqueous mediums and moderate stability in dilute basic aqueous mediums. Hydrolysis rates are expected to be slower at lower pH values; for example, a related carbamate exhibited estimated half-lives of 840 years at pH 7 and 84 years at pH 8. Polymorphism can additionally affect its solubility, dissolution rate, stability, and hygroscopicity.
Conflicts
- Strong basic mediums (hydroxide ions) can lead to deprotection/degradation and the formation of urea.
Safety
Safety Profile
Cyclohexyl Phenylcarbamate is classified with a GHS 'Warning' pictogram and the hazard statement H302: 'Harmful if swallowed' (Acute toxicity, oral category 4). It has a cytotoxic effect on melanocytes and is irritating to the skin. Due to these significant safety concerns, formulations containing this compound are no longer authorized for cosmetic applications in regions such as Europe, Japan, and South Africa.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite theoretical mechanisms for skin lightening and anti-aging, Cyclohexyl Phenylcarbamate is deemed unsafe for cosmetic use due to its cytotoxic and irritating nature, leading to regulatory bans in significant global markets.
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References
Sources