Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract modulates the skin's inflammatory response by suppressing the phosphorylation of NF-κB and reducing the production of nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory chemokines such as TARC and MDC. It simultaneously reinforces the physical skin barrier by upregulating filaggrin expression and provides a photoprotective effect by neutralizing oxidative stress induced by UVB radiation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant reduction in AD-related chemokines (eotaxin-3, TARC, MDC) and upregulation of filaggrin mRNA in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell lines.
- 02 Isolated compounds like lupeol and betulinic acid showed significant inhibition of eotaxin-3 levels at concentrations up to 10 µM.
- 03 Proven protective effects against UVB-induced photoaging in human reconstituted skin models.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its complex extraction process and status as a 'botanical extract,' this ingredient is frequently included at negligible concentrations (below 0.1%) to satisfy marketing claims without providing functional anti-inflammatory or barrier-repair benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is inherently hydrophilic due to high glycosylation, making it highly compatible with aqueous serums and emulsions. No specific pH instability has been recorded.
Synergies
- UV filters
- Ceramides
- Niacinamide
Safety
Safety Profile
While official CIR and SCCS reviews are pending, the extract has a long history of traditional use and shows high compatibility in human keratinocyte studies with low cytotoxic potential.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent multifunctional botanical for calming reactive skin and enhancing barrier integrity, though further human clinical trials are needed to define standardized dosing.
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