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CORNAMIDE/COCAMIDE DEA.

Questionable / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A coconut-derived non-ionic surfactant and thickening agent used to enhance the sensory profile of cleansing products. It primarily serves to stabilize foam and adjust the viscosity of liquid formulations for a more luxurious texture.

surfactant foam boosting viscosity controlling emulsifying emulsion stabilising

Science

It functions by reducing the surface tension between water and oils, allowing for effective emulsification and debris removal. As a foam booster, it increases the volume and stability of bubbles, while its fatty acid chain provides a mild conditioning effect to the skin's surface during the cleansing process.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

10%

Key findings

  1. 01 A formulation study demonstrated that 10% Cocamide DEA enhanced foam capacity by 69.38% in transparent soap systems while maintaining a pH of 8.9.
  2. 02 A CIR Expert Panel irritation test on 15 volunteers confirmed that a 10% concentration resulted in minimal clinical or subjective irritation under normal use conditions.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Typically used as a functional secondary surfactant or thickener; levels below 1% may indicate it is being used solely for label claims rather than structural formulation benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 9 – 10.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly sensitive to temperature, becoming unstable above 31.6°C (89°F). It is subject to hydrolysis in the presence of strong mineral acids or high alkali concentrations.

Synergies

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Coconut-derived fatty acids

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating agents
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Moderate

Classified by the IARC as a Group 2B carcinogen (possibly carcinogenic to humans). It must not be used in formulations containing nitrosating agents due to the risk of forming carcinogenic nitrosamines.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity High

Our Assessment

Questionable

While effective for foam architecture and viscosity, its high comedogenicity and classification as a possible carcinogen make it a sub-optimal choice for precision skincare.


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