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COLOPHONIUM.

Avoid CAS 8050-09-7 / BINDING, DEPILATORY, FILM FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Colophonium, also known as rosin, is a natural sticky sap derived from coniferous trees like pine and spruce. While historically utilized in some topical preparations, its primary modern cosmetic applications leverage its properties as a binding, film-forming, and viscosity-controlling agent. However, its well-documented allergenic potential presents a significant risk for skin compatibility.

Binding agent Film forming Viscosity controlling Depilatory

Science

The 'stickiness' of colophonium primarily dictates its utility as a binding, film-forming, and viscosity-controlling agent within various formulations. On the skin, its allergenic mechanism involves oxidized abietic-type acids, which readily form upon air exposure. These oxidized components can trigger a delayed-type IV hypersensitivity reaction, manifesting as allergic contact dermatitis in sensitized individuals.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.1%

Colophonium is widely recognized as a significant contact allergen, frequently appearing among the top 10 global allergens. Due to this high sensitization risk, products containing concentrations of 0.1% or more are mandated to carry the EUH208 warning: 'Contains rosin; colophony. May produce an allergic reaction,' indicating a critical threshold for consumer awareness and ingredient avoidance in sensitive formulations.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Colophonium readily dissolves in solvents such as alcohol or petrolatum. It exhibits low solubility in aqueous solutions and is sensitive to water. While a pH of 8 has been explored for optimizing the viscosity of aqueous colophony resin emulsions, a general optimal pH range for the stability of colophonium itself across all formulation types has not been established.

Conflicts

  • Sensitive skin types (due to strong sensitizing potential)
  • Individuals with known colophonium allergy
  • Aqueous solutions (due to low solubility and sensitivity to water)

Safety

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk High

Colophonium is a well-established contact allergen, globally recognized as a leading cause of allergic contact dermatitis. There is no 'safe as used' or 'safe with restrictions' classification from major regulatory bodies (CIR, SCCS, FDA) specifically for beneficial skincare applications, primarily because its allergenic potential is well-documented, prompting recommendations for avoidance, especially by sensitized individuals. EU regulations mandate labeling for concentrations ≥0.1%.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Given its significant and well-documented potential for high sensitization and irritation, coupled with a lack of proven beneficial efficacy for skin health, colophonium is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.


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