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Moumoujus

COCAMIDE DEA.

Avoid CAS 68603-42-9 / EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Cocamide DEA is a non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil, commonly incorporated into cosmetic formulations to enhance foam, emulsify oil and water phases, and control product viscosity.

Summary

Emulsifying Foam Boosting Viscosity Controlling Surfactant/Cleansing

Science

Mechanism of Action

Operating as a non-ionic surfactant, Cocamide DEA reduces surface tension, which facilitates the mixing of immiscible liquids like oil and water. It is highly effective at increasing and stabilizing foam in cleansing products. For skin, it contributes to mild cleansing by aiding in the suspension and rinsing of impurities, and can also provide a minor boost to hydration.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range ≤10%
Optimal

10%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 10% concentration of Cocamide DEA was demonstrated to significantly enhance foaming ability by 69.38% in a transparent soap formulation, contributing to an optimal pH of 8.9 for a gentle skin soap.
  2. 02 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded Cocamide DEA is safe for use in rinse-off products, and safe at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on cosmetic applications.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

There is no available data to suggest Cocamide DEA is commonly 'dusted' in formulations.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 8 – 10.5
0 7 14

Stability

Cocamide DEA exhibits stability across neutral, moderately alkaline, or moderately acidic systems. However, it is prone to hydrolysis when exposed to high concentrations of strong mineral acids or alkalis. Optimal performance is often observed within the alkaline pH range (e.g., pH 8.9). For long-term stability, it should be stored in a cool, dry environment, as temperatures above 31.6°C (89°F) can lead to instability.

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Nitrosating agents or systems where N-nitroso compounds are formed, due to the potential for carcinogenic nitrosamine generation.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The CIR Expert Panel affirms Cocamide DEA's safety in rinse-off products and at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on products, provided N-nitroso compounds are not formed. The European Union Cosmetics Regulation restricts Fatty Acid Dialkylamides and Dialkanolamides (including Cocamide DEA) to a maximum secondary amine concentration of 0.5% and forbids their use with nitrosating systems. It is crucial to note that Diethanolamine (DEA), a precursor, has been identified by California's Proposition 65 as a cancer-causing agent since 2012, with associations between prolonged exposure and cancer and organ toxicity. While the FDA approves Cocamide Diethanolamine itself for safety, strict adherence to formulation guidelines to prevent nitrosamine formation is paramount for consumer safety.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite its functional benefits as a surfactant and foam booster, Cocamide DEA is not recommended due to its moderate irritancy and comedogenicity, significant regulatory restrictions, and the inherent risk of carcinogenic nitrosamine formation, making it incompatible with Moumoujus's precision skincare philosophy.

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