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COCAMIDE.

Valuable CAS 61789-19-3 / EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Cocamide is a versatile nonionic surfactant derived from coconut oil, primarily utilized for its ability to stabilize foam, adjust viscosity, and facilitate emulsification in diverse cosmetic formulations. It also contributes mild cleansing and conditioning properties to the skin and hair.

Surfactant Foaming Agent Viscosity Controlling Emulsifying Hair Conditioning Skin Conditioning Penetration Enhancer Degreasing

Science

As a nonionic surfactant, Cocamide actively boosts foam volume and stability, leading to a richer lather. It functions as an effective emulsifying agent, promoting the stable dispersion of immiscible liquids like oil and water, and acts as a viscosity modifier to optimize product texture. Beyond these formulation roles, Cocamide exhibits degreasing capabilities, provides mild cleansing, conditions skin and hair by enhancing hydration, and can augment the dermal penetration of certain substances.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–3%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Typical surfactant use levels in aerosol foam mousse for functional benefits range from 0.5% to 3.0%, with preferred levels between 0.5% and 1.0%.
  2. 02 Cocamide DEA has demonstrated ability to act as a penetration enhancer for specific substances.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Cocamide maintains stability within a pH range of 4.0 to 11.0. While formulations containing Cocamide DEA generally exhibit a long shelf life, instability may occur at temperatures exceeding 31.6°C (89°F).

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents
  • nitrosating agents (due to potential nitrosamine formation)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Cocamide DEA safe for rinse-off products and for leave-on products at concentrations up to 10%. A critical restriction is its absolute avoidance in formulations containing nitrosating agents, due to the potential for carcinogenic nitrosamine formation. Cocamide MEA is considered a safer alternative, permissible up to 50% in rinse-off and 10% in leave-on applications. Furthermore, the FDA approves Cocamide DEA at recommended dilutions and regulates it as a food additive.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Valuable

Cocamide is a valuable ingredient for optimizing formulation texture, stability, and sensory experience due to its surfactant properties, while also providing mild skin conditioning, provided its specific forms and concentration limits are meticulously adhered to.


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