Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract, often referred to as Butterfly Pea flower extract, operates through a rich blend of anthocyanins, flavonoids, alkaloids, and polyphenols that confer powerful antioxidant protection against free radicals and oxidative stress. It soothes the skin by reducing inflammatory markers such as TNF-α and inhibiting apoptosis (caspase-3), supporting skin regeneration and moisture retention while improving elasticity. Key anti-aging actions include anti-glycation effects to prevent collagen degradation, an increase in the body's 'master antioxidant' glutathione, and inhibitory potential against enzymes like hyaluronidase, elastase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which degrade skin's structural components. Furthermore, it directly promotes an increase in fibroblast count and collagen thickness.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Topical application of Clitoria Ternatea extract cream at 2.5%, 5%, and 10% significantly increased fibroblast numbers in UVB-induced male white rats. Collagen thickness also significantly increased at 5% and 10% concentrations.
- 02 A 5% Clitoria Ternatea extract gel effectively reduced the expression of TNF-α and caspase-3 in the skin of UVB-exposed mice, demonstrating significant anti-inflammatory and anti-apoptotic effects.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Clinical data indicates efficacy at concentrations as low as 2.5% for stimulating fibroblast production, with more comprehensive benefits observed at 5% and 10%. This suggests genuine dermatological activity rather than inclusion as a token ingredient.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract's vibrant blue-purple color, primarily due to anthocyanins, is highly sensitive to pH, requiring a narrow range of 6.0-8.0 to maintain its hue; deviations can result in pink (lower pH) or green (higher pH) shifts. High heat can also cause anthocyanin degradation and lead to a faded brown color. Incorporating sucrose can help stabilize color and quality by reducing heat-induced damage and offering some pH protection.
Conflicts
- Strong pH variations outside the 6.0-8.0 range (due to color instability)
- Flour bleaching agents (e.g., benzoyl peroxide) which can oxidize and discolor anthocyanins
- Potential allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to plant-based ingredients
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally regarded as safe for cosmetic applications, with regulatory bodies like the European Union acknowledging its safety. Dermal safety assessments have indicated non-sensitizing properties without systemic exposure. However, as a natural extract, individuals sensitive to plant-based ingredients should perform a patch test prior to initial use. FDA approval for an aqueous extract as a food color additive further supports its overall safety profile, though this pertains to ingestion.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Clitoria Ternatea Fruit Extract is a valuable botanical ingredient, offering comprehensive antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits with demonstrated efficacy in boosting fibroblasts and collagen, suitable for all skin types.
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