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CITRUS PARADISI, X C. RETICULATA PEEL EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 93763-95-2 / 72869-73-9 / PERFUMING

This blend of *Citrus paradisi* (grapefruit) and *Citrus reticulata* (tangerine/mandarin) peel extracts offers a spectrum of dermatological benefits. Rich in potent antioxidants, it actively combats free radical damage and oxidative stress, while also promoting enhanced skin brightness, elasticity, and balanced sebum production.

Antioxidant Skin-Conditioning Fragrance Anti-inflammatory Exfoliant Anti-acne Brightening

Science

Functioning primarily as a robust antioxidant, this extract blend effectively neutralizes reactive oxygen species, mitigating oxidative stress associated with environmental damage and premature aging. Its inherent anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal properties contribute to skin health. Natural acids and Vitamin C within the extracts facilitate gentle enzymatic exfoliation, encouraging cellular renewal, leading to improved skin luminosity and elasticity. Additionally, it helps to regulate sebaceous gland activity, benefiting oily and combination skin types, and can diminish hyperpigmentation by interfering with melanin synthesis. Key bioactive constituents include flavonoids (e.g., hesperidin, narirutin), diverse polyphenols, Vitamin C, and monoterpenes such as limonene.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Mandarin peel extract demonstrated notable free radical scavenging efficacy against DPPH radicals, with an EC50 of 0.179 mg/ml.
  2. 02 It also exhibited scavenging activity against hydroxyl radicals, quantified by an EC50 of 0.415 mg/ml.
  3. 03 Broader research indicates that citrus peel extracts commonly achieve 70-90% DPPH radical scavenging activity, comparable to synthetic antioxidants.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As an extract containing essential oil components, this ingredient is susceptible to oxidation, necessitating minimal exposure to light and air. The presence of furanocoumarins, particularly in grapefruit peel, imparts mild phototoxic properties. Therefore, precise formulation is critical, especially for daytime products, to limit photosensitizing compounds.

Conflicts

  • High concentrations in leave-on products (due to furanocoumarins and potential phototoxicity)
  • Avoid direct sun exposure after application if the formulation contains significant levels of furanocoumarins

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
0.0015%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems citrus-derived peel oils safe under restricted conditions. Leave-on products must not exceed 0.0015% (15 ppm) of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) to mitigate potential phototoxicity from furanocoumarins. While the U.S. FDA recognizes *Citrus Reticulata* Peel Extract as generally safe, both extracts may induce mild irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, thus a patch test is advised. Manufacturers must formulate to prevent irritation and avoid plant constituent levels that could cause sensitization, particularly given that limonene is a known sensitizer.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

This multifaceted citrus peel extract is a valuable ingredient for its antioxidant, brightening, and anti-acne benefits, provided it is formulated precisely to adhere to safety restrictions regarding phototoxicity and sensitization.


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