Science
Mechanism of Action
It operates through a multi-pathway approach: neutralizing free radicals via a complex of flavonoids (quercetin) and vitamins, while its alkaloid content provides anti-inflammatory benefits. Furthermore, it stimulates endogenous hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis, inhibits bacterial growth, and acts as a natural tonic to tighten pores and regulate sebum production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.25%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro assays demonstrate 50% antioxidant activity (DPPH and ABTS) at concentrations between 60.69 µg/mL and 60.89 µg/mL.
- 02 Significant ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) observed at levels as low as 24.16 µg/mL.
- 03 Bioactive profiling identifies high concentrations of caffeic acid (240.78 mg/100g) and epicatechin (242.19 mg/100g) contributing to its protective profile.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Frequently included at negligible levels in mass-market products for label-appeal as a 'natural fruit extract.' While antioxidant activity is present at low ppm, concentrations below 0.05% rarely provide meaningful astringent or oil-control benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable within acidic environments (pH 2.0–6.0). Due to furanocoumarin content, it is best formulated in airless packaging or opaque containers to maintain phytochemical integrity.
Synergies
- Vitamin E
- Ferulic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Broad-spectrum SPF
Conflicts
- High-strength exfoliating acids (in sensitive profiles)
- Unprotected UV exposure
Safety
Safety Profile
Must be formulated to contain no more than 15 ppm of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) to avoid phototoxicity. Usage is restricted to 0.5% when acting as a natural preservative.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent multi-functional botanical for oily and mature skin, provided it is used at bioactive levels and formulated to manage photosensitivity.
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