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CITRUS BERGAMIA MELAROSA PEEL OIL EXPRESSED.

Questionable CAS 92704-01-3 / PERFUMING

Citrus Bergamia Melarosa Peel Oil Expressed is a volatile essential oil extracted from the bergamot fruit, widely recognized for its distinctive aroma and historical application in skincare. It is primarily valued for its potential antiseptic, antibacterial, and mild anti-inflammatory properties, alongside its ability to help regulate skin oil production and refine skin tone.

Perfuming Astringent Antiseptic Antibacterial Oil-regulating Skin toning Skin balancing Soothing

Science

This oil acts through its inherent antiseptic and antibacterial properties, contributing to improved skin hygiene and health, and potentially reducing the incidence of acne by assisting in sebum regulation. It also provides gentle astringent and toning effects, promoting a sensation of skin softness and elasticity, and has been traditionally used to soothe minor skin irritations.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Pre-clinical research demonstrated that Bergamot essential oil exhibited anti-inflammatory activity in a carrageenan-induced rat paw oedema test, with a median effective dose determined at 0.079 ml/kg and a tested dose of 0.10 ml/kg.
  2. 02 Traditionally, Bergamot essential oil has been utilized in Italy for its antiseptic and antibacterial attributes, supporting wound healing and skin disinfection. Furocoumarin-free versions are currently considered safe for cutaneous use without inducing typical skin reactions.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.0015% (15 ppm) for 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) in leave-on products; 0.4% for total Citrus Bergamia Melarosa Peel Oil Expressed concentration in leave-on products.%
Red flag below
Exceeding 0.0015% (15 ppm) of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP), or using non-furanocoumarin-free oil in leave-on products, or exceeding 0.4% total concentration.%

This ingredient is prone to 'dusting' due to significant safety concerns, primarily the severe phototoxicity caused by furanocoumarins (e.g., 5-MOP/bergapten) upon UV exposure. Non-furanocoumarin-free versions necessitate strict avoidance in leave-on formulations or exclusive night-time application. Furthermore, it contains common fragrance allergens (e.g., limonene, linalool) that present a notable risk of sensitization and irritation, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin, often overshadowing its potential benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The oil contains volatile components, and its stability is significantly impacted by the presence of furanocoumarins, which lead to phototoxicity upon UV exposure. Furocoumarin-free versions are considerably more stable for topical application when exposed to light, making them the preferred choice for cosmetic formulations.

Conflicts

  • Non-furanocoumarin-free variants must be strictly avoided in leave-on products intended for daytime use or those exposed to strong UV light due to severe phototoxic reactions.
  • Additive phototoxic effects should be considered when combining this ingredient with other photosensitizing components, necessitating a reduction in overall use levels.
  • Individuals with sensitive skin or documented allergies to fragrant compounds (e.g., limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate) should avoid products containing this ingredient.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
0.4% for total oil in leave-on skin contact; 0.0015% (15 ppm) for 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) content in finished leave-on products.%
Sensitization risk High

The primary safety concern revolves around phototoxicity, where furanocoumarins such as 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP or bergapten) can induce red, edematous lesions upon sun exposure. Consequently, only furocoumarin-free versions of bergamot oil are deemed safe for cosmetic and perfumery applications. This ingredient also includes fragrant compounds (e.g., limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate) that are recognized common allergens by the SCCS, contributing to a high sensitization risk and necessitating meticulous formulation to ensure non-irritating properties.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Questionable

Despite offering traditional antiseptic, antibacterial, and oil-regulating benefits, its high irritancy, significant phototoxicity risk from furanocoumarins, and presence of common allergens make it a questionable choice for precision skincare, demanding strict formulation controls and exclusive use of furocoumarin-free variants.


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