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CITRUS BERGAMIA LEAF OIL.

Questionable CAS 89957-91-5 / PERFUMING

Citrus Bergamia Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil recognized for its cleansing, astringent, and sebum-balancing properties, making it potentially beneficial for oily and congested skin. However, its formulation requires stringent control due to significant phototoxicity risks associated with furocoumarin compounds, specifically 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP). Precision in processing is essential to ensure a furocoumarin-free or low-furocoumarin product for safe topical use.

Fragrance Skin Conditioning Antimicrobial Antioxidant Astringent Sebum-balancing Anti-inflammatory

Science

This oil functions as a natural cleanser and astringent, effectively removing surface impurities and helping to decongest pores. It aids in balancing sebum production, which is particularly beneficial for managing oily skin without compromising the epidermal lipid barrier. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory attributes, primarily due to compounds like linalool, contribute to calming redness, reducing irritation, and combating acne-causing bacteria. The presence of Linalyl Acetate further assists in regulating natural skin oil, and it may also offer cicatrisant properties, supporting the reduction of scars and promoting a more even skin tone.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Animal studies have shown Bergamot Essential Oil (BEO) exhibits anti-inflammatory activity, with a median effective dose of 0.079 ml/kg in rats and highest activity observed at 0.10 ml/kg in carrageenan-induced paw oedema tests.
  2. 02 Bergamot essential oil has been observed to reduce serum testosterone in golden hamsters and improved acne vulgaris linked to excessive androgen secretion in a dose-dependent manner.
  3. 03 Clinical studies on BEO's therapeutic applications primarily focus on aromatherapy for anxiety and stress reduction, with a noted absence of specific human topical skincare application studies.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The concentration of Bergamot Leaf Oil in cosmetic formulations is critically governed by safety regulations due to its potential phototoxic furocoumarin content, particularly 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP). Therefore, its inclusion is meticulously calculated to adhere to strict limits for these compounds (e.g., maximum 0.0015% 5-MOP in leave-on products), rather than being added at sub-effective or 'dusted' levels merely for marketing claims.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Bergamot essential oil is composed of volatile compounds and is highly sensitive to light and heat. It requires storage away from air, light, and heat, preferably at a stable, moderate temperature. For optimal stability in formulations, it should be incorporated during the cooling down phase.

Conflicts

  • Direct sunlight exposure (unless certified furocoumarin-free) due to phototoxicity caused by furanocoumarins like bergapten, which can lead to severe burns and hyperpigmentation.
  • Undiluted application on the skin, as it must always be diluted with a carrier oil to minimize irritation and risk.
  • Topical application in children under 6 years old, and pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
0.0015% (for 5-methoxypsoralen content)%
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil safe for cosmetic use provided it is formulated to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating. A critical restriction for leave-on products is that the total level of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP), a phototoxic furocoumarin, must not exceed 0.0015% (15 ppm). Failure to adhere to this limit can lead to increased UV sensitivity, resulting in severe sunburn and pigmentation issues. Due to potential phototoxicity and irritancy, it is contraindicated for topical use in children under 6 years old, as well as pregnant or breastfeeding women.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Questionable

While offering potential benefits for oily and acne-prone skin through its cleansing, astringent, and anti-inflammatory actions, Citrus Bergamia Leaf Oil carries a significant phototoxicity risk if not meticulously processed to remove furocoumarins and formulated within strict safety limits, making its general topical use questionable without precise quality control.


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