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Moumoujus

CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA FRUIT EXTRACT.

Avoid CAS 89957-91-5 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract is a versatile botanical ingredient renowned for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, alongside its ability to balance sebum and promote cellular regeneration. While offering compelling skincare benefits, its application demands careful consideration due to inherent phototoxicity risks, necessitating the use of furanocoumarin-free versions.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Antimicrobial/Antiseptic Skin-balancing Skin-conditioning Fragrance

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through several key mechanisms to improve skin health. It is rich in antioxidants, which actively neutralize free radicals and mitigate damage from UV exposure, thereby slowing visible signs of aging and reducing fine lines. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities help to soothe skin irritation, calm redness, reduce swelling, and address inflammatory conditions such as acne and psoriasis. Furthermore, it possesses natural antibacterial and antiseptic qualities, contributing to clearer pores, combating acne-causing bacteria, and preventing skin infections. The extract assists in regulating sebum production, making it beneficial for both excessively oily and dry skin types. It also stimulates skin cell regeneration, aiding in the repair of scars and blemishes, and enhances collagen production to improve skin smoothness and elasticity, while promoting a more even and brighter skin tone by fading dark spots and post-blemish marks.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth.
  2. 02 Showed a reduction in proinflammatory cytokines.
  3. 03 Improved acne vulgaris by reducing sebaceous gland spot growth rate, inhibiting triglyceride accumulation, decreasing inflammatory cytokines (especially IL-1α), promoting apoptosis in sebaceous glands, and decreasing the T/E2 ratio. Essential oil application yielded superior results compared to juice.
  4. 04 Resulted in a significant decrease in PCSK9 protein levels in a human hepatoma cell line (HuH7).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The flavonoid rutin, a constituent of bergamot, has demonstrated enhanced stability in aqueous solutions when exposed to 100°C and under oxidative conditions at a pH of 8.0.

Conflicts

  • Direct sun exposure, as the extract can be phototoxic and increase skin sensitivity to UV rays, potentially causing sunburn, rashes, irritation, and hyperpigmentation (phytophotodermatitis). This risk is mitigated if a furanocoumarin-free version is used.
  • Use in individuals with hyperpigmentation disorders like melasma or susceptibility to dark spots, as sun exposure with the ingredient can worsen these conditions.
  • Direct application to broken or irritated skin due to its potential for irritation.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
Not specified for the extract itself. For 5-MOP (bergapten), a phototoxic furanocoumarin present in bergamot oil, IFRA standards recommend a maximum concentration of 0.0015% (15 ppm) in leave-on cosmetic products.%
Sensitization risk High

The CIR is currently undertaking a comprehensive review of citrus-derived ingredients, seeking data on the concentrations of individual constituents, particularly for phototoxic compounds like bergapten (5-MOP). It is critical for cosmetic formulations to utilize bergapten-free versions of bergamot to eliminate the risk of phototoxicity, which manifests as increased skin sensitivity to UV rays, leading to sunburn, rashes, irritation, and hyperpigmentation. This ingredient also has a notable potential to cause skin irritation and allergic dermatitis, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or when applied in undiluted forms.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

While studies highlight its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-balancing benefits, the significant risk of phototoxicity (unless specifically furanocoumarin-free) and its high irritancy profile make this ingredient generally unsuitable for precision skincare applications.

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