Science
Mechanism of Action
Structurally akin to natural ceramides, Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate integrates into the skin's intercellular lipid matrix, forming lamellar liquid crystals. This fortifies the skin barrier, significantly improving its water-holding capacity and moisture retention, thereby protecting against external irritants. It also acts as an emollient, forming a smooth, protective film that enhances skin texture, promotes recovery, and offers a soothing effect, contributing to improved elasticity. Its ability to melt at skin temperature ensures smooth application and comfortable wear.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence10%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical studies demonstrate that a 10% concentration significantly improved symptoms of atopic dermatitis, including dryness, scaling, and itchiness, along with enhanced water content and skin smoothness over 3 to 6 weeks.
- 02 Formulations containing as low as 0.5% showed no irritation or discomfort when applied to sensitive areas like the eye contour, and a 1.5% concentration passed a 7-day cumulative irritation patch test with no adverse reactions.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient maintains stability under typical conditions but can undergo hydrolysis in the presence of strong acids or alkalis. It presents as a petrolatum-like wax at room temperature, designed to melt efficiently at body temperature (36-39°C) for smooth application.
Conflicts
- strong acids
- strong alkalis
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel designated Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate as safe for use in cosmetics, having observed low acute dermal and oral toxicity in animal studies and no irritation in human patch tests at concentrations up to 100%. It is used in leave-on products at concentrations reaching 25.6%, though the Panel emphasized the necessity of minimizing heavy metal impurities.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ceramide-like emollient is a valuable ingredient for fortifying the skin barrier, significantly boosting moisture levels, and soothing sensitive or dry skin without irritation.
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