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CHOLESTERYL/BEHENYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE.

Valuable CAS 244023-78-7 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

This advanced multifunctional ingredient acts as a sophisticated emollient, creating a protective, moisture-locking film on the skin's surface. Its skin-lipid-like structure works to reinforce the natural skin barrier, resulting in a soft, smooth, and comfortable skin feel.

Summary

emollient skin-identical ingredient skin protecting viscosity controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate functions primarily as an emollient, forming a resilient protective film that effectively minimizes transepidermal water loss, thereby maintaining optimal skin hydration and promoting a smoother texture. Classified as a skin-lipid-like material, it forms intercellular lamellar liquid crystals, a structure crucial for reinforcing the skin barrier and enhancing its defense against environmental stressors. This ingredient also exhibits exceptional humectant properties and a high water-binding capacity. As a petrolatum-like wax at room temperature, it melts rapidly at human body temperature (36-39°C), allowing for effortless application and even spreading. Beyond its moisturizing capabilities, it improves pigment dispersion in oil-based formulations and enhances emulsion stability, potentially aiding in the deeper penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–1.5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A product containing 0.5% Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, applied to the delicate eye area and lashes, demonstrated excellent tolerability with no reported skin or eye discomfort in a study involving 30 subjects.
  2. 02 A human cumulative irritation patch test concluded that a face cream incorporating 1% Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate was non-irritating.
  3. 03 A 7-day semi-occlusive cumulative irritation patch test involving 38 subjects showed no irritation with a formulation containing 1.5% Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Data specifically regarding dusting properties or thresholds for this ingredient is not available in the provided research.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient maintains stability under typical formulation conditions but is susceptible to hydrolysis when exposed to strong acid or strong alkali environments.

Conflicts

  • strong acids
  • strong alkalis
  • strong oxidants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Max tested
25.6%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel determined that available data were insufficient to make a safety conclusion for a group of related phytosteryl glutamates, which includes ingredients closely resembling Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, under intended cosmetic use conditions. However, the ingredient has an FDA UNII (07PS463G0H), signifying its recognition within the FDA Global Substance Registration System. EWG Skin Deep assesses this ingredient with a 'LOW' concern rating for cancer, allergies & immunotoxicity, and developmental & reproductive toxicity. Regulatory bodies, such as the European Cosmetics Regulation, permit its use, advising adherence to established dosages and mandating manufacturer-conducted irritation and allergy tests. SkinSAFE further classifies it as 'Irritant Free', 'Teen SAFE', 'Lip SAFE', 'Baby SAFE', and 'Eyelid SAFE', indicating a very low probability of irritation or allergic reactions.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

CHOLESTERYL/BEHENYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE is a valuable skin-identical emollient that effectively reinforces the skin barrier, enhances moisture retention, and provides a smooth, comfortable feel with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity.

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