Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions through electrostatic substantivity; its positive charge allows it to bind securely to the negatively charged keratin on the skin surface. Its amphiphilic structure, comprising a Lauramide group for emulsion stability and a hydroxypropyltrimonium group for water solubility, creates a non-occlusive film that prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and physically intercepts oxidative pollutants.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.5%
Key findings
- 01 A 57-subject single-blind patch test substantiated the ingredient as non-irritating and safe for dermatological applications at concentrations up to 10%.
- 02 Clinical testing in anti-pollution compositions demonstrated that a range of 0.3% to 3.0% can reduce skin ozone exposure by a minimum of 20% when paired with specific polymers.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While it provides conditioning benefits at very low levels, clinical anti-pollution efficacy requires at least 0.3%. Inclusion below 0.1% is likely for label claims rather than functional barrier protection.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains peak stability and cationic activity in acidic to slightly acidic environments; efficacy may diminish if the pH exceeds 7.0.
Synergies
- Acrylic acid polymers
- Glycerin
- Non-ionic surfactants
Conflicts
- Anionic surfactants (SLS/SLES)
- Carbomer
- Xanthan Gum
- Anionic pigments
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized by the CIR Expert Panel as non-toxic and biodegradable, with no significant reports of sensitization in human patch trials.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional film-former for urban defense and barrier support, provided it is formulated within the correct pH range and away from anionic thickeners.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources