Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle
Moumoujus

CHITOSAN ISOSTEARAMIDE HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A high-performance, cationic polymer derived from chitosan that acts as a sophisticated film-former and moisture regulator. It bridges the gap between biological macromolecules and synthetic conditioning agents, providing a breathable protective shield for both skin and hair.

Summary

Skin conditioning Film forming Hair conditioning Skin protecting Penetration enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient utilizes electrostatic attraction to bind with the negatively charged keratin surfaces of the skin. The chitosan backbone establishes a polymeric moisturizing veil, while the isostearamide component provides lipid-like emolliency and the hydroxypropyltrimonium group ensures superior water solubility and penetration enhancement by modulating tight junctions in the skin barrier.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–1.5%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations between 0.1% and 1.0% show significant substantivity to keratinous substrates, resulting in enhanced moisture retention and barrier protection.
  2. 02 At a 1.0% inclusion rate, the ingredient creates a stable moisturizing veil and significantly optimizes the viscosity of cationic formulation systems.
  3. 03 Research at 1.5% (15 mg/ml) demonstrates antioxidant capacity through DPPH radical inhibition and notable antimicrobial properties.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Due to its high substantivity and film-forming efficiency, this ingredient is effective at very low concentrations. Formulations containing less than 0.1% may be using it for label claims rather than functional skin conditioning.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly versatile compared to raw chitosan; it maintains solubility across a broad pH spectrum and is exceptionally stable in cationic or non-ionic emulsions.

Synergies

  • Cationic conditioning agents
  • Non-ionic emulsifiers
  • Lipophilic emollients

Conflicts

  • Anionic surfactants (SLS/SLES)
  • Anionic polymers (Carbomer, Xanthan Gum)
  • Strongly anionic electrolytes

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not listed as a standalone CIR entry, it is categorized under the safe usage profiles of microbial polysaccharide gums and modified chitosan derivatives.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional multifunctional polymer that provides durable hydration and enhances the delivery of other active ingredients through its unique cationic nature.

Related

Similar Ingredients

Finding similar ingredients…