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CHITOSAN CAPRYLAMIDE HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN PROTECTING

A high-performance, amphiphilic chitosan derivative that creates a breathable 'second skin' moisture veil. It utilizes a unique dual-affinity structure to provide simultaneous hydration and barrier reinforcement without the heaviness typically associated with traditional occlusives.

Barrier Protection Humectant Emollient Skin Conditioning Film Former

Science

This ingredient functions through electrostatic and lipophilic anchoring. Its cationic (positively charged) nature allows it to bond firmly to the negatively charged skin surface, while its C8 fatty acid chain integrates with the skin's lipid layers. This dual-action allows it to form a non-sticky, high-molecular-weight film that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while maintaining skin breathability.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.01–0.14%
Optimal

0.04%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant anchoring to skin-mimetic structures by increasing the phase transition temperature of phospholipid molecules.
  2. 02 Successfully reduced TEWL and maintained elevated hydration levels for over 120 minutes post-application.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.01%
Red flag below
0.005%

Because it is typically supplied in a 1% or 2% solution, formulations often claim its presence while containing less than 0.01% of the actual active polymer. To achieve the 'veil' effect, concentrations equivalent to at least 1% of the raw material solution (0.01%-0.02% active) are required.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 13
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable across an exceptionally wide pH range due to its quaternized backbone. It is typically supplied as a liquid aqueous solution.

Synergies

  • Phospholipids
  • Ceramides
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Conflicts

  • Strongly anionic surfactants
  • High levels of anionic thickeners like Carbomer or Xanthan Gum

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not specifically reviewed by the CIR, manufacturer safety data confirms it passes primary irritation and toxicity testing. Related trimonium compounds have a long history of safe use in skincare.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An innovative, versatile polymer that excels at locking in moisture through a sophisticated electrostatic 'veil' mechanism.


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References