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Moumoujus

CHELIDONINE.

Valuable CAS 476-32-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated benzophenanthridine alkaloid derived from the Greater Celandine plant, specifically engineered to regulate hair follicle activity and provide soothing relief. This precision molecule serves a dual purpose by slowing down unwanted hair regrowth while simultaneously calming inflammatory pathways within the skin barrier.

Summary

Hair growth minimizer Skin conditioning agent Anti-inflammatory Cytoprotective

Science

Mechanism of Action

Chelidonine operates as a microtubule disruptor by inhibiting tubulin polymerization, effectively decelerating the metabolic cycle of hair follicle cells to produce finer, slower-growing hair. Beyond its depilatory benefits, it mitigates skin stress by blocking TLR4/NF-κB and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, reducing oxidative damage and inflammation at a cellular level.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation of a 3% standardized complex (Kelisoft) demonstrated a quantifiable reduction in both the speed of hair growth and individual hair diameter over time.
  2. 02 In vitro research identified an IC50 of 24 μM for tubulin inhibition, confirming its molecular mechanism for hair minimization.
  3. 03 Studies on purified chelidonine indicate significant cytoprotective and wound-healing properties when applied at sub-toxic concentrations below 1 μM.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because high-purity chelidonine is a specialized and costly alkaloid, it is often 'dusted' in post-depilation products at negligible levels. For measurable hair-growth inhibition, concentrations should ideally align with the 3% clinical benchmark used in commercial complexes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 5.5 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

Highly sensitive to visible light and photodegradation; requires opaque packaging. Stability is best maintained in slightly acidic to neutral environments. Advanced delivery systems like nano-encapsulation are recommended to enhance bioavailability.

Synergies

  • Allantoin
  • Bisabolol
  • PLGA encapsulation

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
  • Direct UV exposure

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed by CIR
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Moderate

While topical application in cosmetics is considered safe, the parent plant contains isoquinoline alkaloids that the SCCS notes as potential sensitizers. Internal consumption is strictly prohibited due to hepatotoxicity risks.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptionally effective niche ingredient for precision hair-growth management and post-procedural skin recovery.

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References

Sources