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CETYLDIMONIUM ETHYL CETYL PHOSPHATE.

Valuable CAS - / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated zwitterionic emulsifier and conditioning agent that functions as a biomimetic phospholipid. It is specifically engineered to stabilize complex emulsions while reinforcing the skin's structural integrity through the formation of lamellar liquid crystalline phases.

Biomimetic Emulsifier Skin Conditioner Barrier Repair Agent Antistatic Emollient

Science

This 'inner salt' molecule utilizes a dual-action approach: its cetyldimonium cation carries a positive charge that electrostatically adheres to the skin's surface for immediate conditioning, while its phosphate group facilitates a lamellar structure. These layers mimic the natural lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, effectively sealing in moisture and significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation of lamellar structures at 0.5-3.0% demonstrated significant improvements in water resistance and long-term epidermal hydration.
  2. 02 Research into high-ethanol formulations confirmed that concentrations up to 5.0% maintain emulsion stability and a non-greasy profile even with 20% alcohol content.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While it can function as a stabilizer at very low levels (0.1%), clinical benefits for barrier repair and water resistance typically require concentrations above 0.5%.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional resilience in electrolyte-heavy environments and ethanol-rich formulas where traditional anionic emulsifiers often destabilize.

Synergies

  • Ethanol
  • Glycerin
  • Mineral UV filters

Conflicts

  • Strong anionic surfactants
  • High-viscosity Carbomer systems
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Although the specific INCI is not yet CIR-reviewed, its chemical precursors (Alkyl Phosphates and Quaternary Ammonium Compounds) are well-documented for safety in leave-on cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An expertly engineered stabilizer and barrier-mimetic agent essential for high-performance sunscreens and therapeutic moisturizers.


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