Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient utilizes a dual-action structural approach: its long alkyl chain integrates into the lipid bilayer to smooth surface irregularities, while its unique polar hydroxyl group—inherited from ricinoleic acid—acts as a mild humectant. This allows it to both trap moisture through hydrogen bonding and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by reinforcing the skin's natural barrier.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated a significant increase in skin surface electrical capacitance, indicating a measurable improvement in epidermal hydration.
- 02 Validated as non-irritating and non-sensitizing in human repeat insult patch tests (HRIPT), confirming high dermal tolerance.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often used for texture at low levels, clinical efficacy for hydration begins at 3%. Concentrations below 1% in moisturizers are likely for formula aesthetics rather than active barrier repair.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
An exceptionally stable waxy solid that resists oxidation and rancidity significantly better than liquid vegetable oils. It transitions to a liquid state at approximately 35°C.
Synergies
- Ceramides
- Squalane
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly acidic formulations (pH < 4.0)
- Strong alkaline environments
Safety
Safety Profile
Extensive safety reviews conclude it is non-toxic and non-genotoxic, sharing the safety profile of its parent, castor oil.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent moisturizing ester for dry and compromised skin, though it should be avoided in acne-prone routines due to its high comedogenic potential.
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References
Sources