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CETYL BABASSUATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A 100% vegetable-derived alkyl ester that serves as a sophisticated alternative to synthetic silicons and heavy oils. This precision emollient is engineered to provide a dual-phase sensory experience, transitioning from a lubricious slip to a refined, velvety dry-down.

Emollient Occlusive Viscosity Controller Solvent Texture Modifier

Science

It functions as a biomimetic lipid that integrates into the stratum corneum, filling the microscopic gaps between corneocytes to smooth the skin surface. By forming a breathable, hydrophobic film, it acts as an occlusive agent to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while maintaining a non-greasy aesthetic.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–25%
Optimal

10%

Key findings

  1. 01 Technical evaluations demonstrate that concentrations between 2% and 25% provide optimal pigment wetting and a characteristic velvety after-feel.
  2. 02 Comparative stability testing confirms its efficacy as a natural replacement for synthetic oils in both O/W and W/O emulsion systems.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it functions primarily as a texture modifier and barrier enhancer, concentrations below 2% are often insufficient to deliver the ingredient's signature 'dry' sensory profile, potentially indicating its use for marketing claims rather than functional performance.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermally stable up to 85°C; highly resistant to oxidation. Insoluble in water, glycerin, and glycols.

Synergies

  • Color pigments
  • Natural waxes
  • Vegetable-derived lipids

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong acids
  • Strong bases (potential for ester hydrolysis)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Included in the CIR Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters; clinically regarded as non-irritating in standard cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional plant-based emollient that balances high-performance barrier protection with a sophisticated, non-comedogenic skin feel.


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References