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CETRARIA ISLANDICA THALLUS EXTRACT.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Commonly known as Iceland Moss, this lichen-derived extract acts as a high-performance botanical film-former that shields the skin while providing deep hydration. It is particularly valued in precision skincare for its ability to soothe inflammation and provide a reservoir of moisture for compromised skin barriers.

Humectant Skin Protectant Soothing Agent Antimicrobial Antioxidant

Science

The extract utilizes a high concentration of mucilaginous polysaccharides, specifically lichenin and isolichenin, to create a protective, breathable physical film on the epidermis. This matrix functions as a demulcent to lock in transepidermal water and defend against environmental stressors, while secondary metabolites like usnic and fumarprotocetraric acids provide targeted antioxidant support and natural antimicrobial defense.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.3–3%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 28-day double-blind, placebo-controlled trial using a 3% concentration demonstrated significant measurable improvements in skin firmness and texture smoothness, alongside a marked increase in hydration levels.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis confirmed antimicrobial efficacy against multiple pathogens at concentrations between 0.312 and 5.0 mg/ml, highlighting its utility in blemish-prone and scalp formulations.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While often included for label appeal in botanical 'blends' at negligible amounts (below 0.1%), therapeutic benefits for skin roughness and barrier repair are clinically validated at concentrations closer to 3.0%.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract maintains its structural integrity in neutral to slightly alkaline environments. Formulations must stay above pH 5.0 to prevent the precipitation of lichen acids.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Panthenol
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Strongly acidic environments (pH < 5.0)
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) by the FDA for food use, indicating a high threshold for biological safety in topical applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally versatile botanical active that bridges the gap between traditional soothing remedies and modern barrier-repair science.


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