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CETOLETH-24.

Valuable CAS 68155-01-1 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A high-performance nonionic surfactant and solubilizing agent used to bridge the gap between oil and water phases in complex formulations. It is particularly valued in precision skincare for its ability to integrate lipophilic fragrances and active ingredients into clear, aqueous systems without compromising stability.

Surfactant Emulsifying agent Solubilizer Cleansing agent

Science

As a large-molecule ethoxylated alcohol, Cetoleth-24 functions via a dual-action structure: its 24-unit hydrophilic ethoxy chain provides significant steric hindrance to prevent oil droplets from coalescing, while its cetyl/oleyl tail anchors firmly into the oil phase. With a high Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of approximately 16.2, it excels at stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions and solubilizing lipids into water-based serums.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluations of 10% concentration in analogous PPG-5-Ceteth-20 demonstrated no evidence of sensitization or irritation in human patch testing.
  2. 02 A 2023 assessment of related ethoxylated alcohols (5%) confirmed a non-sensitizing profile despite occasional mild, transient irritation.
  3. 03 Phototoxicity studies on 201 subjects at 0.5% concentration confirmed the ingredient is neither photoallergenic nor phototoxic.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Cetoleth-24 is a functional excipient rather than a 'hero' active; its presence at low levels is typical for fragrance solubilization, while higher levels are required for emulsification. It is rarely used as a marketing claim.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient across a wide pH spectrum, though it performs most predictably between pH 6.0 and 7.5. It maintains structural integrity in most cosmetic environments.

Synergies

  • Lipophilic active ingredients
  • Nonionic co-emulsifiers
  • Essential oils and fragrances

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme acidic conditions (pH < 3.0) which may lead to ether cleavage over time

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Moumoujus recommends sourcing Cetoleth-24 processed via vacuum stripping to ensure 1,4-dioxane impurities remain below the 1 ppm safety threshold.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential technical component for achieving sophisticated, stable textures and ensuring the even distribution of lipid-soluble actives in water-heavy formulas.


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