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CETETH-20 ITACONATE.

Valuable / NOT REPORTED

A high-performance associative rheology modifier that provides sophisticated texture and stability to complex cosmetic formulas. It is particularly valued for its ability to maintain product integrity in challenging environments, such as high-salt or alkaline systems, where standard thickeners typically lose their structure.

viscosity controlling emulsion stabilising texture enhancing

Science

As a Hydrophobically modified Alkali-Swellable Emulsion (HASE) polymer, it functions by creating a complex three-dimensional network. When neutralized, its hydrophilic backbone expands while its 'ceteth-20' hydrophobic chains anchor to other oils or polymers, resulting in a shear-thinning texture that applies smoothly but stays stable in the bottle.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical safety assessments published in Toxicology Reports (2018) confirmed the polymer as non-irritating and non-sensitizing for human use.
  2. 02 Technical evaluations demonstrate exceptional stability and thickening efficiency in electrolyte-rich environments and high pH systems (up to pH 10).

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because this is a functional texture enhancer rather than a bioactive 'hero' ingredient, it is rarely 'dusted.' It is typically used at functional levels (0.5%+) required to achieve specific viscosity targets.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient in the presence of salts and minerals; maintains viscosity across a broad pH range once the polymer has been neutralized.

Synergies

  • Hydrophobic actives
  • Alkaline agents
  • Electrolytes

Conflicts

  • Highly cationic surfactants
  • Environments with pH lower than 3.0

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Manufacturing protocols must ensure that 1,4-dioxane impurities are strictly controlled to below 1 ppm to meet safety standards.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A robust and skin-safe structural architect that ensures formula stability and elegant flow, even in chemically demanding skincare preparations.


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