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Moumoujus

CETEARYL PHOSPHATE.

Valuable CAS 90506-73-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated anionic emulsifier that creates biomimetic structures to stabilize skincare formulas while reinforcing the cutaneous barrier. It is particularly valued for its ability to mimic the skin's natural lipid bilayer, providing a sophisticated, non-greasy skin feel.

Summary

Anionic Emulsifier Skin-Identical Barrier Support Surfactant Texture Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

As an anionic surfactant and oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier, it reduces interfacial tension to create stable lamellar and vesicular liquid crystalline structures. These 'gel networks' simulate the organization of human epidermal lipids, forming a protective seal that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and prevents the depletion of natural skin fats.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.3–4%
Optimal

1.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Phase 3 clinical trials (DERMIS-1 and DERMIS-2) demonstrated that a 0.3% concentration within a phosphate ester blend successfully maintained skin barrier function in pharmaceutical-grade psoriasis treatments.
  2. 02 Technical data indicates that concentrations between 1.0% and 4.0% effectively act as primary emulsifiers, creating liquid crystalline structures that enhance hydration and protect barrier-compromised skin from lipid extraction.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.3%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because it serves a structural role in emulsions, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing. However, concentrations below 0.3% may be insufficient to provide the characteristic barrier-mimicking benefits unless part of a specific active delivery system.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 6.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

While the ingredient is chemically most stable between pH 6.5 and 7.5 to prevent hydrolysis, it remains physically stable within finished formulations across a broad range of 3.0 to 9.0.

Synergies

  • Lipid-replenishing emollients
  • Mineral UV filters
  • Water-resistant polymers

Conflicts

  • Divalent ions (Calcium, Magnesium)
  • Trivalent ions (Aluminum)
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Strongly acidic environments

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
8.3%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe when formulated to be non-irritating; the 8.3% threshold is established by related alkyl phosphate use in leave-on products.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A high-performance functional ingredient that bridges the gap between formulation stability and active barrier repair through biomimetic structural organization.

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