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Moumoujus

CETEARETH-5 PHOSPHATE.

Valuable CAS 106233-09-4 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A sophisticated anionic phosphate ester that serves as both a high-performance emulsifier and a structural architect for advanced skincare textures. It is specifically utilized to create stable oil-in-water emulsions that mimic the skin's natural lipid organization, ensuring a refined, non-greasy sensory experience.

Summary

Anionic Emulsifier Surfactant Texture Enhancer Penetration Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

Ceteareth-5 Phosphate operates by lowering the interfacial tension between the aqueous and lipid phases of a formula. Upon neutralization, it organizes into a lamellar liquid crystal gel network; this 'cushioning' matrix not only stabilizes the emulsion but also acts as a delivery system that enhances the penetration of lipophilic active ingredients into the stratum corneum.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 2–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical Human Repeat Insult Patch Testing (HRIPT) at 5.0% demonstrated zero evidence of sensitization or irritation, confirming its high dermatological tolerance.
  2. 02 Technical evaluations confirm that concentrations between 2.0% and 3.0% are optimal for establishing a stable liquid crystal network that significantly improves formula spreadability and reduces perceived oiliness.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional emulsifier required for structural integrity, it is rarely 'dusted.' However, concentrations below 1% may be insufficient to form the desired liquid crystal network, potentially indicating it is being used only for incidental surfactant properties rather than its primary delivery-enhancing benefits.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient across a broad pH spectrum. It begins as oil-soluble in its acid form and becomes water-dispersible once neutralized with a base like Triethanolamine or Potassium Hydroxide to form its stabilizing network.

Synergies

  • Amphoteric surfactants
  • Non-ionic emulsifiers
  • Lipophilic actives

Conflicts

  • Cationic surfactants
  • Polyquaterniums
  • High electrolyte concentrations

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel supports its safety profile. Moumoujus monitors for 1,4-dioxane byproducts to ensure levels remain well below the 10 ppm safety threshold recommended by the FDA.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An essential structural ingredient for precision formulations, offering a rare combination of emulsion stability, enhanced active delivery, and a superior, non-comedogenic skin feel.

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